Ball joint replacement using HF kit and home made adapter - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #16 01-23-2013, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ah-kay

Hi Rich, making the adapter is a lot of work. Do you think a similar size 1/2" drive socket would work also?

No, it can't be any taller than 7/8 because the press will not fit in the recess if it is any bigger.

ROLLGUY · #17 01-23-2013, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

esses.

Funola posted a thread Redneck lower Ball Joint removal. He dug a hole and buried the upper end of the knuckle in the ground to drive out the BJ with a Hammer. This does work, I did mine for the 85, and took about 7 - 10 whacks to drive it out.

I placed a piece of 1/4" 4x4 steel in the bottom of the hole so I wasn`t driving the thing deeper into the ground. I used the flat end of the Socket (27MM) against the BJ and a smaller one (11/16) inverted inside. both impact sockets.

Charlie

I did my 240 front end rebuild today, and tried the hammer trick for removing the old BJ's. I just held the upper end with one hand, and whacked the joint with a hammer. About 15 blows, and it came right out.

Diesel911 · #18 01-24-2013, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

a user called samiam said he made a similar thing for a W124 - and it worked very nicely.

Excellent pics!

I Also made one (I started off too long and kept cutting it back, never finished it and just installed the Joint without it) and found a thread where Dormison had Made one many years previous.

Several years a go there was some argued that the Steering Knuckle could not be fit on a Hydraulic Press so that the Ball Joint could be pressed out.
That idea has now been dis-proven!

Also you can get the C-Press from Autozone on a free Rental Basis.

For those who do not Weld or want to go through the trouble to make the Tool using LEMFÖRDER/Lemfoerder/Lemforder Ball Joints W123s if you are willing to remove the Boot from the Joint you can just use a Flat Washer with the Hole enlarged so it slide over the Joint Shaft and the C-Press.
In the Pic the Washer would go where the Red Arrows Point.
I manages to do it without the Washer but it clearly would have been better with a washer there as the Press wants to slide on the conical surface of the Ball Joint.

Removing the bottom Ball Joint Boot Spring was not Hard on the Lemforders as the Boot is made of some heavy Plastic and not likely to be get poked through by the spring.
After the Joint was In the Knuckle just put some more grease in the Boot and put it back on.

BobK · #19 01-24-2013, 11:54 AM

yeah, I have generally removed the boot and used the press like in the above photo. Think I will try to make something like the adapter shown in the top pictures next time. Looks like a good tool. To remove the old ball joint, I generall use a 24 oz ball peen and then when it doesn't work a 48oz hand sledge. Trick I have found is to have the knuckle resting on something really solid. I have a solid piece of steel about 4in dia and 9 inches long-really heavy and doesn't get moved around easily by someone hammering on it. I of couse use lots of PB Blaster or the like. One time I was able to replace the ball joints on (I think) a 124 by setting the bottom of the joint (still in the arm) on a socket on the big piece of steel and pounding on arm. Joint popped out nicely. This was the one that failed as daughter backed the car into the driveway. Sometimes I just get lucky!

funola · #20 01-24-2013, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I did my 240 front end rebuild today, and tried the hammer trick for removing the old BJ's. I just held the upper end with one hand, and whacked the joint with a hammer. About 15 blows, and it came right out.

As I recall, the FSM has a pic of the knuckle clamped in a big vise for striking with a hammer. You did it by holding the knuckle and hammer in the air freehand? Were they small taps rather than big swings? Your BJ must not have rusted in the knuckle.

ROLLGUY · #21 01-24-2013, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

You did it by holding the knuckle and hammer in the air freehand? Were they small taps rather than big swings? Your BJ must not have rusted in the knuckle.

Yes, I figured I would try it. I only did one, and will try the other. If I had a way to video it, I would.....Rich

Stevo · #22 02-08-2013, 11:22 AM

Rollguy, Thanks to you and funola for posting this information. A little over a year ago I payed Les Schwab a bunch of money to replace the lower B/Js in my TD and in just over a year the boots are shot. I got the HF tool and made the 7/8s adapter and one thing I noticed is that it fits the Lemfoerder B/J but not the two other brands I had, Meyle and some other, unmarked cheepie. Not that thats a problem with me as I intent to use only Lemfoerder. The adaptor was pretty easy to make thanks to your inventiveness and probably could be "adapted" to fit any B/J as long as its not too tall.

ROLLGUY · #23 02-08-2013, 12:01 PM

Yes, Lemfoerder for me as well. They are less than $20 from Pelican. That is what I made the adapter to fit, so it is nice to know that it will only work with Lemfoerder ( I won't be using any other brand anyway)....Rich

Zulfiqar · #24 02-08-2013, 12:08 PM

put that up as a rental kit.

Walkenvol · #25 02-08-2013, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobK

One time I was able to replace the ball joints on (I think) a 124 by setting the bottom of the joint (still in the arm) on a socket on the big piece of steel and pounding on arm. Joint popped out nicely. Sometimes I just get lucky!

Can't visualize how this could happen as the BJ is pressed in from the bottom side of the arm. Wouldn't you have to pound on the BJ to remove and then pound on the arm to drive in the new BJ?

ROLLGUY · #26 02-08-2013, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Walkenvol

Can't visualize how this could happen as the BJ is pressed in from the bottom side of the arm. Wouldn't you have to pound on the BJ to remove and then pound on the arm to drive in the new BJ?

Agreed. I believe the ball joint is under tension on a 124, and under compression on a 123. Someone please correct me if I am wrong...Rich

Zulfiqar · #27 02-08-2013, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Agreed. I believe the ball joint is under tension on a 124, and under compression on a 123. Someone please correct me if I am wrong...Rich

yes you are correct.

ROLLGUY · #28 02-08-2013, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Agreed. I believe the ball joint is under tension on a 124, and under compression on a 123. Someone please correct me if I am wrong...Rich

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

yes you are correct.

There are many excellently designed parts on a Mercedes Benz, but the 124 lower ball joint is NOT one of them IMO.
I can't figure out why there would be any advantage to placing a ball joint under tension. It seems like a recipe for disaster (yes I have seen a few 124 ball joint failure threads).

Zulfiqar · #29 02-08-2013, 05:43 PM

the W124 design is employed in millions of cars around the world, it only fails with extreme neglect or rust.

OTOH I really like the W210 etc setup - the joint is set on two tapers, to replace, jack the control arm - and take a regular two jaw puller or hammer to separate the part

turbobenz · #30 02-08-2013, 07:47 PM

getting the ball joint out isn't that difficult with a hammer, prop the thing up with sandbags. if you have access to a long barrel air hammer Holy crap its easy