300CD...story so far - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Smoker · #1 09-13-2013, 01:06 PM

With just under two weeks of ownership, here's where I am on the '82 300CD.

Rust repaired in floor, trunk, and rocker. Underhood vacuum sorted and most everything replaced. New belts. Oil and filters. Trans fluid and filter. Valves adjusted. New style hand pump. Fuel purge. New return lines. New fuel filters. Compression check and new heat shields. New driver and passenger window rails. EGR disco, kit in hand to plug/remove. Front power windows adjusted and lubed. Drivers side mirror glass replaced.

Tonight it gets all new underhood cooling and heating hoses (including that big fat straight bypass that only comes in 3ft length!), thermostat, and G05.

Stacked on the shelf for next week are engine and trans mounts, kickdown switch, new door lock switches (both failed vac test), and rear side window rails (180 each, yeoooww).

On my list is a/c conversion to sanden, finding a good tan passenger seat bottom, and a better paint job. I've also got to yank the sunroof and clean/lube the tube as it is slow and slippy on cool mornings

.

ROLLGUY · #2 09-13-2013, 01:50 PM

Sounds like you are on your way to having a really nice CD. My first 'Benz was an '82 300CD as well (Signal Red with Black interior). I am kinda sad that I sold it, it was (and probably still is) a great car....Rich

Simpler=Better · #3 09-13-2013, 02:07 PM

You're on the right track

If you want to get it back to original performance I'd recommend making sure the transmission is shifting properly then: checking and correcting chain stretch, getting the injectors reworked, check the "fuel return spring" on the IP, checking your pump timing, checking your boost (should be 12psi), and finally adjusting the ALDA.

Smoker · #4 09-13-2013, 02:10 PM

Oh you give me more work!!!

. Right then, off to the FSM to look those up. Keep 'em coming.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

You're on the right track

If you want to get it back to original performance I'd recommend making sure the transmission is shifting properly then: checking and correcting chain stretch, getting the injectors reworked, check the "fuel return spring" on the IP, checking your pump timing, checking your boost (should be 12psi), and finally adjusting the ALDA.

cooljjay · #5 09-13-2013, 02:29 PM

Add on to that list, to clean all the ground points.....and as many connectors as you can......

Upgrade all your fuses to brass/copper contacts and ceramic bodies.....

Upgrade to thicker battery cables....

Flight the electrical gremlins before they appear...

Smoker · #6 09-13-2013, 03:02 PM

Fuses are on the shelf, along with contact cleaner....forgot to list that on my to-do list

.

Now kicking myself since I see I've got to pull the VC again to check chain cam timing/stretch...and find my dial indicators....have two, should be able to find one right??

Is there a thicker set of cables part number(s) or just buy bulk and make a set? I've got to pull the battery and try anyway to treat rust there so might was well do the cables.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay

Add on to that list, to clean all the ground points.....and as many connectors as you can......

Upgrade all your fuses to brass/copper contacts and ceramic bodies.....

Upgrade to thicker battery cables....

Flight the electrical gremlins before they appear...

Simpler=Better · #7 09-13-2013, 03:16 PM

Visually inspect your flex discs, they can total a car when they fail.

The cables are a homebrew. Advance Auto (last I checked) had 2 gauge really cheap if you bought the whole roll. A battery quick disconnect is always a good idea, no matter the make or model.

Other nitpicks: timing chain tensioner spring is cheap and probably worn
manifold bolts like to loosen up from vibration, leaking exhaust at cyl 5
the aux coolant pump (engine bay, fender, passenger side)can sieze and fry your climate control
the boost line from the back of the manifold to the alda (on the IP) gets clogged with soot and puts the IP into "limp mode"
vacuum pump bearings can fall out of their races and go into the engine.(the achilles heel of this motor)

If you want a high output(110A) alternator the Bosch AL129X is usually on fleab*y for around $120, you typically only have to swap the pulley to make it work.

um...

check your sunroof drains, if they clog then you will get water in the cabin.
Check your rear axle boots.

If you want bigger front brakes the hub/rotors can be swapped from a similar model that escapes my mind right now.

If the exhaust is stock don't bother cutting anything out, the merc resonator and muffler are basically glasspacks. (but straight piping it does sound great...to me at least)

Smoker · #8 09-13-2013, 03:46 PM

I think since I'm doing trans and motor mounts next week I'll just do flex discs and center bearing....I started reading the horror stories after you mentioned that and $100 to toss in a new set of flex discs seems worth it. 31 year old car that hasn't been maintained all that well from what I've seen so far.

Also ordered glow plugs and reamer just because...it gets down to the teens here in winter and I don't expect to ride the motorcycle in winter this year. always have before but after a major bike wreck the body doesn't like cold anymore, I think it's my titanium parts. Replacement bike doesn't seem to care

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

Visually inspect your flex discs, they can total a car when they fail.

The cables are a homebrew. Advance Auto (last I checked) had 2 gauge really cheap if you bought the whole roll. A battery quick disconnect is always a good idea, no matter the make or model.

Other nitpicks: timing chain tensioner spring is cheap and probably worn
manifold bolts like to loosen up from vibration, leaking exhaust at cyl 5
the aux coolant pump (engine bay, fender, passenger side)can sieze and fry your climate control
the boost line from the back of the manifold to the alda (on the IP) gets clogged with soot and puts the IP into "limp mode"
vacuum pump bearings can fall out of their races and go into the engine.(the achilles heel of this motor)

If you want a high output(110A) alternator the Bosch AL129X is usually on fleab*y for around $120, you typically only have to swap the pulley to make it work.

um...

check your sunroof drains, if they clog then you will get water in the cabin.
Check your rear axle boots.

If you want bigger front brakes the hub/rotors can be swapped from a similar model that escapes my mind right now.

If the exhaust is stock don't bother cutting anything out, the merc resonator and muffler are basically glasspacks. (but straight piping it does sound great...to me at least)

cooljjay · #9 09-13-2013, 04:03 PM

Remember don't use uro brand parts!

Check your flex discs before replacing them....along with any rubber bushings you expect to replace as normal maintenance....because of the quality of after market parts, your 30 year old rubber is a better choice if its in good shape....same with the center barring....

Oh have you replace the gear shifter bushings and neutral safety switch?

Simpler=Better · #10 09-13-2013, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smoker

...after a major bike wreck the body doesn't like cold anymore, I think it's my titanium parts. Replacement bike doesn't seem to care

Haha you're right on point