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  #16  
Old 11-18-2013, 09:01 PM
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Location: West Quebec
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
The RPM issue = it should be charging as low as 550 - 600 RPM if the correct SMALL pulley is on the alternator...

I find many older MB have had the alternators replaced with WRONG (Large) V-belt pulley's = causes low RPM and idle charge issues.
This is the '85, with double alternator belts. The pulley from the alternator that was removed had to be switched over to the new one.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #17  
Old 11-18-2013, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
I appreciate all the input. I had hoped to look at it today but we have 40 mph wind gusts and intermittent rain so I'm not too keen on even opening the hood.

I don't think that having two courtesy lights on for ~6 hours should have drained a fresh battery to that extent. During the summer with the old battery installed I would be surprised if I didn't do exactly the same thing on several occasions.

The alternator was put in five weeks ago and there was no hint of any issue until now. I mention this as we have had some pretty lousy weather for the time of year, during that time, and there have been many days when I was driving relatively short trips with all the accessories on: headlights, wipers, blower working hard, rear defroster operating.

Had the alternator not been charging properly, I think it would have showed up then, even if only the starter turning more slowly -- and we have had very cold mornings as well.

I am going to follow up on all the suggestions, though it may now be a few days before I can do anything. For the moment I will be driving with the booster pack in the trunk.

Thanks
Pull the Alternator and have it tested. Pulling it off of the Car rules out any Car Wiring issues.

When I had one tested a PepBoys I was shocked that they gave me a little print out; in My case telling Me what tests the Alternator did not pass.

Charge the Batter and also have the Load Test the Battery.
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  #18  
Old 11-19-2013, 10:35 AM
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Quick reality check - relay operation

On my '85, when the relay clicks off after ~30 seconds, there should be NO power to the glowplugs 15 seconds after, correct?

Or do I have some post-glow function?

As you may guess, trying to eliminate the glow relay from this equation....

EDIT: It's going to depend on the part number of my relay... will check after work.
Thanks
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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Last edited by Zacharias; 11-19-2013 at 03:54 PM.
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  #19  
Old 11-19-2013, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Pull the Alternator and have it tested. Pulling it off of the Car rules out any Car Wiring issues.

When I had one tested a PepBoys I was shocked that they gave me a little print out; in My case telling Me what tests the Alternator did not pass.

Charge the Batter and also have the Load Test the Battery.
We don't have Pep Boys or any of the other US stores up here. But when in USA, I took my E320 to an Advance Auto and they produced a printout showing my alternator was bad. I had a bad feeling about what they did, so took it to another store. There the young guy was a racing car guy, and knew what he was doing. He didn't even hook up the tester. Nothing wrong with alternator. 2 years later still good!

If alternator is to be tested, I would take it to a proper auto-electric shop. (Not Crappy Tire )
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85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
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  #20  
Old 11-19-2013, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Graham View Post
We don't have Pep Boys or any of the other US stores up here. But when in USA, I took my E320 to an Advance Auto and they produced a printout showing my alternator was bad.
I had a bad feeling about what they did, so took it to another store. There the young guy was a racing car guy, and knew what he was doing. He didn't even hook up the tester. Nothing wrong with alternator. 2 years later still good!

If alternator is to be tested, I would take it to a proper auto-electric shop. (Not Crappy Tire )
Not much in the World is infallible especially People. When you take items to be tested you are gathering information.

In My particular case I took the Alternator to Autozone and they said it was not working (like in your case I did not trust them).

I then took it to PepBoys and they also said it was not working and the print out said why it was not working.

I had bought the Alternator on eBay and the Seller in his Ad had said it was tested OK.
That little piece of Paper from PepBoys got My Money refunded and they just gave me the Alternator.
(I told the Seller that the Item was not as described because He had said the item had been tested and worked.)

I thought; great, a free alternator I can rebuild!
As it turned out it looks like the Alternator had be submerged a long time in Water and the innards were rusted, and I bent something taking it apart.
So no joy there.

.
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Last edited by whunter; 11-20-2013 at 03:42 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #21  
Old 11-19-2013, 08:53 PM
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No post glow that Im aware of. GP turns power on to the glow plugs and when the relay times out, zero power is what you should read.
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  #22  
Old 11-19-2013, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TnBob View Post
No post glow that Im aware of. GP turns power on to the glow plugs and when the relay times out, zero power is what you should read.
Good to know. I just need to check the part number on the relay, however, as there was a post-glow relay sold for a number of years... and I know what I have in there now is a different part number than what came with car when I purchased it. It's one I got from another forum member.

Reason I ask: this morning I let the relay go for more than 30 seconds and did not hear it click off. Went back to power off and turned the key again, it engaged again and I did hear it make a sound after a while, however it was not the distinct CLICK that this relay usually makes, more like a muffled TWUP. I checked and sure enough, I had 10.9v at the first glowplug, and that was way over the 30-second mark by that point.

My immediate reaction was that vstech had nailed it, it was him who suggested the relay, but then I remembered the post-glow relay angle.

Anyway I left the relay unplugged after startup and did the same when I left the office.
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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #23  
Old 11-20-2013, 03:29 PM
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Yup, post-glow relay in use, but....

When I typed in the Bosch part number, one of the first search returns was this thread, which coincidentally also refers to an '85 w123... so I am not the first boy scout in the troop to have charging issues with this relay retrofitted, it appears:

Bosch glow plug relay: working? broken? stupid? (pick 2)

Also if I understood some of other info in the search returns, this relay was supposed be used with an alternate GP part #. This I will have to look at more, and as I have been swamped today with work I can't get to it just yet.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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