Hey Gang,

A few questions: I was wondering if there is any "sweet spot" to set the IP before removal, or if drip timing is pretty much essential anytime the IP is removed because of tension in the system, etc. I've pondered adjusting the IP when I have it off, since it is not very accessible in my application; but I likely will leave her how she is unless someone chimes in that the improvement is drastic from torque capsule adjustment and the resultant downstream calibrations. I may just adjust the rack limiter up 1.5 and boost to 15psi. I've replaced the bolts on the back of the IP to hex sockets so I can still explore down the line.

I really just want to catch any "common silent killers" before being in the middle of nowhere. How many folks feel that the intermediate bearing/bushing should be checked (at ~180k)? Should I just plan to replace it? (How many folks feel that a vacuum delete is vital? Could I just replace the bearing with a caged style? Any Veteran Tips/Tricks?))

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72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck
(*<1%)
Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/

I assume you have a OM617.952 looking at your signature???

Fuel Injection Pump Removal with the Oil Filter still on 617.952

maybe this will help?


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I don't understand the question....the op is making my brain hurt...

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Taking them one at a time =>

I get the impression you've not removed an IP before.

You will find that the pump will spring round to one of three may be four (?) places of rest within 360 degrees - if you haven't used a "lock tool" to hold the camshaft in the IP in place it will go to a "place of relaxation" (!)

There isn't really a "sweet spot" as there is wear in any system so begin of delivery gets quoted by some to be a little bit close to the factory specs - I think it depends on the direction of the wind or the flavour of the month.

Yes indeed you are most likely going to need to adjust the timing when you refit - drip timing is one of a few methods

All adjustments really ought to be made on a test bench - sure you can fiddle about with bits with it on the car but then you're heading off into voo doo witch mechanic culture which is not the Mercedes way!

Oh crap management speak! Bail out! Bail out! Bail out!

Errrr "you should outsource your application to a recognised and authorised authority who is ISO9001 compliant"

Does that get you anywhere?

Well have fun with that - make some black smoke

Yes check that bushing - very important to do so

Never fall into the trap of "old is crap" - if the original part is good keep it.

I think the piston vacuum pumps are very well built - if you replace the bearings AND check the intermediate shaft bearing it should be good for years and years of faithful service. Sure it is a ticking time bomb - but the whole engine ticks that's part of the charm!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Vacuum pump related information here

More than you are likely to ever want to know about OM61X piston vacuum pumps

(Did this when I was really bored - links to other threads too)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

If your Fuel Injection Pump is from after 1982 for about $37 you can get a Fuel Injection Pump Timing/Locking Tool. If used properly after you re-install the Fuel Injection Pump the timing should be within the limits of the Spec.

I insalled My Fuel Injection Pump with the Timing Locking Pin and have been runing it for at least 3 Years withoug doing the Drip Timing or having any obvious issues like nailing and so on.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hey All,

Thanks for the copious feedback on a very compound question! Basically I know I should check the intermediate bushing, and "while I'm in there" I thought I would check the community pulse of shifting the torque curve via the IP; and whether the headache is worth the effort.

Charmalu: I do and thanks for the link, it sure is a tight fit in there!

cooljjay: Sorry for that, it sure is question soup!

Stretch: You're correct, I haven't removed the IP before, and I'm glad to hear your perspective on playing with it; and my "business-esque" (or confounding) speech arises from reading the myriad of perspectives (widely differing) on whether one should adjust the IP or just leave well enough alone. Basically, I plan leave it be unless a majority of folks think that it is doable with enough attention-to-detail and trial-and-error.
(Oh, and PLENTY of ISO9001 Compliance! )
-Thank you on the bushing and vacuum advice too, can you think of any other common failure points for the motor offhand? (Off to read about Vacuum pumps!)

Diesel911: Good to hear, it is from an '83 so I will check that out, where does the tool engage the IP?

__________________
72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck
(*<1%)
Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/

DIY IP timing lock

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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO

I am trying to post the PDF on the use of the Timing Locking Pin.
About the level of your Fuel Supply/Lift Pump is a 17mm Plug on the Governor. Remove that Plug and some Oil will come out.

You insert the Timing Locking Pin and orient the Groove properly. There is a notch on the outside part of the Pin so that you can see that.
Rotate your Engine in the proper direction of Rotation till you are coming up on the Compression Stroke continue past OT on the Crank Damper till you get to 15 Degrees after OT (15 Degrees after top dead center of the compression Stroke).

Install you new IP to block Gasket and install the Fuel Injection Pump with the Studs in the middle of the Slots on the Fuel Injection Pump and blot the IP down.

Remove the Timing Locking Pin and reinstall the 17mm Plug.
There is a Plug on the same side at the top of the Governor that you can add some Oil so it will not be dry inside. To be sure let it idle a while before driving or revving the Engine.
If you did that correctly you are done.

Concerning the Block to IP Gasket. I considered the one I got from Mercedes to be too thin so I used the Factory Gasket as a pattern and cut one out of some thicker Gasket Material.

In the Manual they show that some IPs have an O-ring on the IP Camshaft Drive end. Mine does not have that. If yours does I guess you should change it.
See post #3 for a picture of where the O-ring is
1982 200d IP Swap: M Style back to MW Style
I don't know why some have the O-ring and others do not.

Attached Files

07_1-201 Installation of Fuel Injection Pump with Timing Locking Screw Pin.pdf (288.4 KB, 139 views)

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Picture of the lock



From this thread

? for seasoned OM617 ip timing folk



{Small print =>

I've been bad really bad before and just used a wheel lug!

But I'll never own up to this in public}

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Notice how on the Red tip of the Tool in Post #10 there is a groove. The groove needs to be in the positon as is in the picture.

Note the Timing Locking Pin is in the Tool Rental System. Back and forth shipping is going to be about $13 plus the Rental fee. That is going to end up being about 1/2 of the Cost of a New one.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Cadin-

If you do the intermediate shaft bushing, let me know. When I did mine I bought two, and you're welcome to the second one.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap