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  #151  
Old 07-15-2014, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
I agree, it could be any one of those things. It would probably be best to get a compression reading anyways to see how healthy the engine is. I'm probably going to take the injectors over to my mechanics place and pop test them/ clean / rebuild them. I'll need to see about a drop timing tool so I can verify it's timed properly as well. The pump doesn't show any signs of it having been moved.
Were you getting fuel out of the cracked injector line nuts at the injectors?

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  #152  
Old 07-15-2014, 06:17 PM
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Are you in a position where tow starting it would be an option? There have been a few cases on here of 617/616 engines that have sat a long time and would not start using convention methods however started with a tow start and were fine after that....
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  #153  
Old 07-15-2014, 06:21 PM
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If it starts from pull starting and runs well enough , that would be good confirmation of low compression.
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  #154  
Old 07-15-2014, 07:39 PM
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I believe it was Mike-81-240D (on the other side) had a 300D that had been sitting for some time that wouldn't start without a tow. However after the initial start it was fine and had no issues.

A few rings might be stuck resulting is low compression, tow starting it and giving it a good Italian tune up might knock them loose and solve the issue.
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold
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  #155  
Old 07-15-2014, 08:05 PM
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I sent the injectors off to get pop tested and balanced anyways, they will need it. Before I tow start anything I need to bleed the clutch hydraulics. The shifter mechanism really needs a rebuild too.

Last edited by vstech; 07-16-2014 at 08:10 AM.
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  #156  
Old 07-15-2014, 09:40 PM
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Can you post a video of the car cranking over? So we can see if the starter is turning fast enough?

To get one of these guys, to wake from their slumber, you really need a good starter, cables battery x2.....pull starting it may very well be the way to go.

Here's some pics of the belts, don't mind the arizona sand/dust...



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  #157  
Old 07-15-2014, 11:52 PM
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It seems like it's spinning fast enough to me. I'll take a
Video tomorrow

The belts look better than mine. The chrome on mine is covered in corrosion.
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  #158  
Old 07-19-2014, 05:07 PM
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Update?
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  #159  
Old 07-21-2014, 01:42 PM
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I was in Idaho and then Boston so no new news. I sent my injectors out to be cleaned, balanced and potentially rebuilt if necessary.

Thinking about going out and bleeding the brakes and ten the clutch hydraulics.need to read up on the clutch bleeding as I've heard it can be a pain
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  #160  
Old 07-21-2014, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
I sent the injectors off to get pop tested and balanced anyways, they will need it. Before I tow start anything I need to bleed the clutch hydraulics. The shifter mechanism really needs a rebuild too.
You do not need to bleed the clutch to tow start. The clutch is always engaged by default. Put it in 4th, turn key to glow/ pull.
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  #161  
Old 07-21-2014, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
You do not need to bleed the clutch to tow start. The clutch is always engaged by default. Put it in 4th, turn key to glow/ pull.
Bad idea. What happens when it does start and he has no way to disengage the clutch? The car runs into the tow vehicle? Sounds pretty irresponsible (and maybe a dumb idea) to try this. I would make sure the clutch (and brakes) are working properly before trying to pull start a car. That is just the opinion of a responsible individual, you can do what you like.....Rich
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  #162  
Old 07-21-2014, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
Bad idea. What happens when it does start and he has no way to disengage the clutch? The car runs into the tow vehicle? Sounds pretty irresponsible (and maybe a dumb idea) to try this. I would make sure the clutch (and brakes) are working properly before trying to pull start a car. That is just the opinion of a responsible individual, you can do what you like.....Rich
You are making it a bigger deal than it is. To avoid ramming the tow vehicle, you can shift into neutral without the clutch (whatever you do, don't step on the throttle), you can step on the brakes, you can turn the ign off. Of course, don't try tow starting if you are an uncoordinated klutz. Brakes always a must. Clutch not so.
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  #163  
Old 07-21-2014, 03:44 PM
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I'm probably just going to wait to tow start until I have the brakes working as they should and the clutch pedal
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  #164  
Old 07-21-2014, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
I'm probably just going to wait to tow start until I have the brakes working as they should and the clutch pedal
You should post a sound file of your engine cranking so I can tell you if you are meeting minimum RPM, which is around 130 (ideally you want 150 or higher). Getting it started with the starter motor is hell of a lot less hassle than tow starting. Now that you have the injectors out, it is the perfect time for a compression test. I'd suggest doing that before the tow start, which is a last resort IMO.
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  #165  
Old 07-21-2014, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
I'm probably just going to wait to tow start until I have the brakes working as they should and the clutch pedal
Working brakes and clutch are always a good thing to have

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