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#76
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The reman 4 Seasons heavy R4 that I bought had o-rings. Do not remove the plate until you are ready to charge the system, it provides a pressurized seal. Under the plate should be o-rings. You can re-use them (the ones on mine were black) or replace them with better HNBR o-rings (what I did).
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#77
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#78
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#79
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I would drain out the oil it shipped with, flush in a little new oil and drain again. Most "for 134A" compressors ship with PAG oil. While compatible w/ R-12 or HC refrigerants, it absorbs moisture which can cause internal corrosion. R-12 mineral oil is getting hard to find, and must be a special "no wax" oil for AC. For probably the same price, you can buy Hella PAO 68 oil (ebay or Duracool's "Oil Chill"). Most come w/ uV dye. It doesn't absorb moisture and is compatible w/ all other AC oils and refrigerants. It is also claimed more efficient, by better staying in the compressor where it is needed, instead of in the condenser and evaporator where it decreases heat transfer. That might help R4's last since they have no oil sump and need to hang onto all the lube they can.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#80
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I have some “no wax” ac oil (that says it’s for r12 specifically) that I found at a Napa (had been special orders for another guy who didn’t pick it up). I was going to use this after draining out the shippers oil. I still have much to do - flushing evap, condenser and hoses, replacing orings and maybe the valve. Removing and installing new compressor - this part just seems like a bear.
So I can leave the cover plate on the compressor and hook up the hoses/manifold after I have it fully installed and belt on? |
#81
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#82
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That makes sense. I’ve seen some interesting methods to rotating the new compressors by hand to circulate oil without the tool. But maybe I should just get one. They are cheap and prob have other creative uses.
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#83
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You do not need a special tool to turn the compressor. Use a socket/ ratchet on the center bolt. If you don't have the deep socket, apply power to the clutch and turn it by hand. If you need more leverage, use a rubber band type jar opener/ torque multiplier.
Change/ flush the oil in the compressor immediately before you install it. I used Behr/ Hella PAO 68 oil with premixed dye for R12
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#84
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I had a new R4 and was easily able to turn the shaft by hand. I did that on the bench, and it helps force all the PAG oil out. Otherwise, you could install it, tension the belt, and use the engine to turn it over before you bolt on the hose manifold.
Don't need to use the starter, just put a wrench on the bolt on the power steering pump to turn the engine over by hand. As many times as I've done that, I just thought that a diesel could theoretically start from turning it by hand. But, without the glow plugs and turning so slowly, I doubt it could ever start. You will need to actuate the AC clutch, which you can do by pulling the relay and jumping terminal 30 to 87 in the socket w/ a wire. Most people bolt on the tubes and fill the oil by pouring it down the suction tube, which can be disconnected just above the compressor. If you try to pre-fill, the oil will just run out until you get the tube manifold on. I would rotate the engine (or just compressor) while doing this, to insure you don't hydro-lock the compressor. Actually, that sounds impossible since the outlet valves are just flapper plates which can always open. But, seems smart to distribute the oil regardless.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
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I can turn the face of the thing by hand. Is the cprr correction direction to turn clockwise? (If I’m looking at compressor while standing in front of engine).
I’m just waiting for my flush to arrive before tackling the job. Couple questions remain during prep: 1) I want to test the power runing to the compressor clutch. I will jump at the relay - which relay box is this - on the front end of drivers side fender? 2) I was doing a dry run, planning our access to the bolts holding the compressor. Are there 4 or 3? Do I need to remove anything else from engine/compartment to actually remove/install the compressor? If not out of absolute need, is there a thing or two I could remove (without needing to drain coolant) that would make the job or access easier? 3) I’ve not really messed with my belts yet. Can I just approximate the tension when I put the belt back on, or do I need to deal with that more precisely? I’m hoping that in loosening the bolts on old I will be able to determine how this tension is adjusted. |
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just trying to bump this a little but don't want to be annoying.. if anybody can provide insight into one or two of these questions as I prep for compressor R&R. I can't thank this community enough for all the help I've received over the last couple years - just want to throw out that genuine appreciation!
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Andrew Montclair, NJ -------------- 1982 300D Turbo 120k Petrol Blue Green |
#87
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All w123/126 engine accessories have 3 bolts holding, and one tensioner bolt.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#88
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I have never removed anything else when changing compressors... should drop straight out.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#89
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Awesome. Thanks vetch. I found the belt page of the manual too.
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#90
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Is one of these relays for the compressor and one for the aux fan? Or am I lookin at the wrong relays.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CsZo2IyjVtiQy8322 |
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