Quote: Originally Posted by greazzer "... How the hell can I pressurize this cryptic fuel system to get more fuel pushing thru her?? Since everyone thinks more fuel is a necessity ....." I am guessing that a majority of the fuel is probably returned to the tank so it's not an issue of getting more fuel to the chambers. Your injectors and pump are the issue. Even running R&Ds #242s will never get you to your end state with a tuned IP. Thx lot what are 242 Rds.... Tho!!!

__________________
1980 Mercedes 240D - 235 wHP (Heavily Modded)
Twin intake, exhaust delete, gutted and cut.

#242s ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CcZTrFWZGo

I suspect drugs may help with some of the delusions you have of performance expected from this car...

__________________
'11 Honda Accord EX - "The Daily" 64K
'83 500SL Euro - "The Money Pit" 116K
'91 350SD - "The Diseasel Jr." 168K
'86 300SDL - "The Diseasel" 189K (Totaled 1/31/19)
The Diseasel Thread - Everything You Didn't Know You Wanted To Know

150HP is a pretty high figure to expect from a 2.4L economy diesel from the 60s with 450K miles on the clock. Assuming you ever did get it there, the life expectancy of that engine would probably be measured in minutes.

If the body and chassis is in good shape, you should be thinking seriously about an engine swap if you want more horsepower. Forget trying to tune up the OM616, it'll always be a slug.

__________________
'11 Honda Accord EX - "The Daily" 64K
'83 500SL Euro - "The Money Pit" 116K
'91 350SD - "The Diseasel Jr." 168K
'86 300SDL - "The Diseasel" 189K (Totaled 1/31/19)
The Diseasel Thread - Everything You Didn't Know You Wanted To Know

I think you should go back to Honda Civics and not ruin Bruno Saccos masterpiece w123 designed for economy and reliability. it's not a drift car. it never will be fast either. I say put the car out to pasture and send it to where it belongs. the junkyard. it's been ruined.

putting power to a 450k engine is asking to kill that thing in short order. not to mention the diff, the driveshaft, axles etc. if you want to make it fast, putting a Windsor v8 in it

__________________
1999 E300 216K - Obsidian Black
1998 E300 257K - Brilliant Silver almost showroom
1998 E300 272K - Brilliant Silver
2003 Golf TDI 5 speed 312K - winter beater

If the OP is being serious, you could do the following with an OM616 engine:

OM616 building with VE pump

You can do this IP -- getting rid of the in-line pump. IF you did that, you could then do

AAZ injectors (2-stage). They are tricky to set but not horrible. I can dial in a set within 30 minutes but then again I have been doing injectors for years now.

IF you did that, you could go with nozzles such as #315s as those are COTS buys right now and you can find them from Germany.

You could go with 2:88 differential; get rid of your power steering; go solely with an electric fan and EWP.

As for getting rid of the half ton of steel and other weight ... that's pretty much nonsense. So, be more accurate and go for a 200 pound reduction if possible. That would be the max less you made CF hoods, et cet

Ok everyone stop!!! Why wouldn't I be serious! I'm a real guy with a real car and a real job. I've done this all before, I KNOW how to wrench on things!!!

First off.... How can my Pre 500k engine be "getting old" when this is the world famous million mile engine..... Incorrect!!

This is like the main thing that makes me doubt credibility around here. Hmmm.....


But anyways so greazzer is suggesting a COMPLETLY new fuel set up. Which kind of seems smart because it's obvious to me that these injection pumps are kind of crappy.... Like I ran a 5 gallon bucket of veggie oil (no diesel on hand) from my mom's pantry and this Bosch IP could barely keep up. The car just sputtered and sputtered.

So in conclusion ya my power problem must be this injection pump just like greazzer has told me. Thx lot.

__________________
1980 Mercedes 240D - 235 wHP (Heavily Modded)
Twin intake, exhaust delete, gutted and cut.

The in-line pump is fine. You could get a mod'd in-line pump with bigger elements; however, you wont be able to run the AAZ injectors unless you go with a VE type of pump. You could go with an inline pump and if you are planning to burn grease, then the in-line is pretty much your only option.

Keep in mind you will need to re-build your head most likely with turbo valves, et cet. I am guessing you could find a machinist to modify your block to have oil squirters. You could fab up a turbo too. There are dozens of options.

All of the above will cost a bundle ... So, yes anything can be done but is a hobbyist willing to dump $$$$ into an OM616?

So, because a number of forum members have contributed their time to your project, it's your turn to share some snappies of how you sliced away 100's of pounds of steel and interior stuff.

I know I shouldn't feed the trolls, but in case anyone is still reading:

You can delete the intake and exhaust manifold, or install a ram-air intake hood scoop, or do just about anything else... and still get ZERO power gain. Yes, zero. 500% more airflow with no additional fuel means the 72hp engine will still produce, you guessed it, right around 72hp.

It's not worth any time or expense attempting to increase power on the OM616, if you want the 123 chassis to be quicker, swap in a turbo OM617 engine. If you need more, it will take ~$1500 for a Mynä-Diesel or Dieselmekken IP along with the appropriate parts to increase airflow and cool the charge air (another grand or two, most likely). By the time you're done, you could have bought a decent used W210 E55 AMG for less money that's eleventybillion times faster (rough estimate).

Oh, and these OM61x engines will normally run great on warm veggie oil, at least until the IP's fail from being fed veggie oil. (And no, it's not a crappy pump. LOL.)

Attached Thumbnails

 

^^^ Yeah. Photos or it didn't happen!

Considering the rods coming out of the Civic, maybe not. People can get >500HP out of the D series engines on the stock connecting rods. They're a seriously overbuilt engine for what they are, but a complete different critter from these diesels.

Can the OM61x go 1M+? Sure. Do most of them? Hell no. It doesn't matter how well the engine is made, 450K miles is TIRED. Do a compression test, if you're >350PSI on all 4 holes, I'd be surprised. You're showing your ignorance on a forum full of diesel DIY-ers.

People run veggie oil in these cars all the time, the IP has no issue running on veg. Since yours has issues on veggie oil, you clearly have fuel delivery problems. Be glad you're making 55HP.

__________________
'11 Honda Accord EX - "The Daily" 64K
'83 500SL Euro - "The Money Pit" 116K
'91 350SD - "The Diseasel Jr." 168K
'86 300SDL - "The Diseasel" 189K (Totaled 1/31/19)
The Diseasel Thread - Everything You Didn't Know You Wanted To Know

the nice thing about feeding trolls is that after a while they poop out and it becomes fun to poke the troll too ...

Specifically I want to see that 235HP he's generating on a dyno chart. Anyone got popcorn?

__________________
'11 Honda Accord EX - "The Daily" 64K
'83 500SL Euro - "The Money Pit" 116K
'91 350SD - "The Diseasel Jr." 168K
'86 300SDL - "The Diseasel" 189K (Totaled 1/31/19)
The Diseasel Thread - Everything You Didn't Know You Wanted To Know

I want to see some snappies of the sliced and diced body. I tinkered with CF and making panels is not easy. So, if someone with a grinder can slice away like half a ton of steel, I gotta see that. I know what the body panels weigh, and even the glass.

Did the great metal diet really go down? I want to see some snappies now ...

me too ... even a OM617.95X with mod'd injectors, mod'd IP, mod'd head gasket, and a few others gizmos is probably not gonna make this ...