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  #1  
Old 11-21-2000, 01:01 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Sherman Oaks, CA
Posts: 4,748
Hi everyone,

I just noticed today that my left front wheel has about 10 times more brake dust on it than any other wheel. The other wheels are barely dirty after I washed it last weekend, but the front left is Almost black, and thats only after 4 days of driving. (I was out of town most of last week...)

Now here is what I have noticed. Under harder than normal braking, the left front seems to produce a griding feeling/sound.

The sound and feeling are only from the left front and not any of the other wheels.

Braking normally the car is perfect with the brakes, but braking hard, I can feel it in the left side only, and the amount of brake dust on that wheel compared to the others is a sign to me that something just is not right.

What could be causing this?

The fluid is full and in good condition.

The pads are quite new, with little wear on them.

Both the left and right side rotors appear to be identical in wear/surface texture.

The car does not pull to any side when braking hard or normal. the car stays dead straight under hard braking, even with my hands off the wheel.

This has me a bit worried. I am baffled at the more brake dust on the left front than on any other wheel, and I am baffled as tot he grinding sound/feeling from the left front, which is only coming from the left front.

Should I change my pads? have my wheel bearings checked? check for a frozen caliper? (if the caliper was frozen, wouldn't the car pull a bit to one side?)

What can I do to fix this problem?

Please advise, I'm getting scared to drive the car because I have a feeling I will either cause damage to the braking system, or the brakes will fail on me when driving.

Thanks for your help,

Alon

------------------
'92 300CE
Metallic Black (Blue Flaked) on Parchment
Clear Corners
94-95 Tail-Lights
Debadged
Black Grille Insert
78.5k Miles

Future Upgrades:
Sportline Suspension
17" AMG Monoblocks or EVO II's
Euro Headlights
Performance Chip
AMG Exhaust

Click here to Go To My 300CE Page
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  #2  
Old 11-21-2000, 02:33 PM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Florida / N.H.
Posts: 8,777
You seem to have checked it out pretty much, but when you say the rotors look the same, have you checked the inside surface?

Caliper and hose problems usually have some
pull, so I suspect rotor problem.
Might even want to change side as a test.
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  #3  
Old 11-21-2000, 02:54 PM
Ashman's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Sherman Oaks, CA
Posts: 4,748
Thanks, the problem seems strange, because the brakes work great, there is just that grinding sensation ont he left front, and the brake dust being way more on that wheel alone.

When I checked the rotors I looked at them from the outer part and ran my finger over it. Thats why I meant by look and texture. the grooves or ridges are the same feeling on both sides. I will check the inside, maybe the inner pad is gone or something...

If I have to replace the rotors/pads, then thats what I'll be doing, I just want to be sure that the problem will be fixed.

I can't afford to pay for things that arent necessary at the moment...

I will submit a request to partsshop on the price of pads/rotors.

If anyone has any more info or advise, please let me know, I want to take care of the problem ASAP.

If doing the brakes means I gotta put off on getting my Euro lights, then thats what will have to happen. but I want to be sure that I either have a problem and what the fix is before I spend any money. perhaps just changing the pads or rotors, or maybe there is a stone wedged in there?

Thanks for the help, I look forward to more responses

Alon

------------------
'92 300CE
Metallic Black (Blue Flaked) on Parchment
Clear Corners
94-95 Tail-Lights
Debadged
Black Grille Insert
78.5k Miles

Future Upgrades:
Sportline Suspension
17" AMG Monoblocks or EVO II's
Euro Headlights
Performance Chip
AMG Exhaust

Click here to Go To My 300CE Page

[This message has been edited by Ashman (edited 11-21-2000).]
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  #4  
Old 11-21-2000, 07:58 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: New Bedford, MA USA
Posts: 1,583
The inner pad will always be the first to go. You may have to replace your pads. There have been instances that pad sets have been mixed up either at factory or in the shop where they are sold. The point is, you never know what might have happened to them before you got them. If this is bothersome, I would replace the pads, mike the rotors (replace if under spec) and clean the wheels. You should be OK..

------------------
Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
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  #5  
Old 11-21-2000, 08:09 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Saugus, CA USA
Posts: 1,989
If air gets into one of the brake lines it could cause an imbalance of the brakes. That can be resolved by bleeding them.

------------------
5 speed '91 190E 2.6 73,000 mi. (new car, fast, couldn't find any more Peugeots)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 250,000 mi. (old car, slow)
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  #6  
Old 11-22-2000, 03:09 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Sherman Oaks, CA
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well the sensation in the pedal appears to be normal. Rock solid, and the car stops on a dime. the problem appears to be either a pad/rotor issue. I've driven cars with air in the brake line and it does not fell the same as my brakes do. When there is air in the brakes, I generally feel a hard pedal that is a bit squishy, and the car appears to be not braking as well. My case is that the car brakes great, there is just a ton of brake dust ont he left wheel and that grinding noise. I have a feeling its pads or rotors.

Does anyone have the part numbers for the pads / rotors? or will the fastlane at partsshop have the info. if I am going to replace the rotors, is there a better rotor to use? I'm not concerned with brake dust I'll just clean the wheels more often, but I would like to improve the stopping power with the right pads for the car.

Mine has the dual piston calipers ont he front.

If replacing the rotors, will rotors from another benz work or is that playing with fire to try hat?

Sorry for the long post and questions, I just want to make sure I take care of the problem as quickly as possible.

thanks so far for the info in your responses, I will definately pull the wheel and inspect further, maybe even pull the pads and check them, but I dont necessarily know if its a good idea to pull them and put them back in. I should probably order new pads. the rotors from appearance appear quite thick, though the inner side might be more worn, and the grinding might be the caliper against the inside of the rotor.

I will investigate further, if you have any more tips, please feel free to share more knowledge with me.

I probbaly wont be working thursday and friday, so I should be able to get more info on what I can see in the braking system.

If I am going to change the rotors if they are needed, should I repack the wheel bearings at the same time or is that a given?

Thanks,

Alon

------------------
'92 300CE
Metallic Black (Blue Flaked) on Parchment
Clear Corners
94-95 Tail-Lights
Debadged
Black Grille Insert
78.5k Miles

Future Upgrades:
Sportline Suspension
17" AMG Monoblocks or EVO II's
Euro Headlights
Performance Chip
AMG Exhaust

Click here to Go To My 300CE Page
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  #7  
Old 11-22-2000, 09:23 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
You probably have surface difference side to side. The contact face, rotor surface to pad surface, is an eternally changing system. Pad material is burned, mixed, diffused into the surface of rotors changing the friction coefficient of each surface. Certain combinations (of surfaces) cause various vibrations of the system.

These vibrations manifest themselves as, squeaks, moans, and the condition called "crouching' (first described that way to me by a MB factory rep in 1975). This last vibration condition isn't heard but felt and it feels like the system is metal to metal (best way to describe it).

The condition almost always can be removed by sanding with 80 grit sandpaper (all surfaces). While this will get immediate results they may not be permanent. Pad composition eventually is the long term solution. (along with either new rotors or a thorough sanding) MB has different pad compositions for different noises.

BTW none of this usually affects the brakes stopping ability. It is only a creature comfort issue. IMHO.

------------------
Steve Brotherton
Owner 24 bay BSC
Bosch Master, ASE master L1
26 years MB technician
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  #8  
Old 11-22-2000, 08:17 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Sherman Oaks, CA
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Steve, Thanks for he info,

Looks like I'll just get all new pads and rotors for the front of my car.

I might try the sanding thing, but its probably less time consuming to replace them than to sand them.

Any recommendations on pads/rotors to get?

I would prefer to not have any squeal at all, as little brake dust as possible, and of course good braking.

With that in mind, what is your recommendation?

Alon

------------------
'92 300CE
Metallic Black (Blue Flaked) on Parchment
Clear Corners
94-95 Tail-Lights
Debadged
Black Grille Insert
78.5k Miles

Future Upgrades:
Sportline Suspension
17" AMG Monoblocks or EVO II's
Euro Headlights
Performance Chip
AMG Exhaust

Click here to Go To My 300CE Page
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