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#16
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I'm going to have to hope an experienced tech will answer this one for you, as I have never seen the inside of an MB cat, although at the point where you see a drop in fuel economy and performance, any damage to the cat internally, if it is to blame, should be obvious.
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'96 C280 (gone) '97 C36 '05 C230k |
#17
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Your high CO readings indicate a rich mixture, so the Lamda system is probabably not functioning properly. A common culprit is a faulty O2 sensor. The Lamda engine temperature sensor could also be fauly - sending a false low temperature signal, so the system always thinks the engine is cold, or it could be the EHA or control unit problems. Duke |
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I got a reading (by puncturing sensor side of black wire to ground) of 0.451V at start up (coolant temp 80°C) slowly (over 20-25min) descending to 0.349V. Increase of rpm to 2500 would raise reading to about 0.360V at bottom end of the reading. That and this... Quote:
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-Marty 1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible (Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one) Reading your M103 duty cycle: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html Last edited by A264172; 02-13-2005 at 01:30 PM. |
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Coolant temp sensor reads 475Ώ at 95°C (aprox.) out by more than 100.
Normal range is 290-370 Ώ at 80°C should be around 220 at 95°C Is this a typical sort of failure? Edit: retest - am getting 720-750 Ώ at 80°C (reversing-polarity for cross testing) and dropping but, is not in correct range Can I jumper this to 0 resistance to see if it runs good or is that not ok for computer?
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-Marty 1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible (Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one) Reading your M103 duty cycle: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html Last edited by A264172; 02-13-2005 at 02:39 PM. |
#20
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What do you mean by "reversing polarity for cross testing" Are you saying that when you reverse the probes you get a different resistance reading? The thermistor should read the same regardless of which probe is on which connection.
If you believe that the sensor is bad then you could hook up a resistor of what ever value it is supposed to be at running temp and if the engine is at running temp then it should be happy. I don't think zero ohms would be a good idea.
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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine) 1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow) Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra |
#21
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Thanks for your response. Marty
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-Marty 1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible (Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one) Reading your M103 duty cycle: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html |
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Unplug the O2 sensor and look at its open circuit voltage. It should be over 450mV. Engine and exhaust must be fully warmed up. Also check for continuity of the O2 heater.
I have the following temp sensor values for '84 M102. I'm not sure if they apply to later KE systems, but I think they do. 20C 2.2-2.8 Kohm 80C 290-370 ohm 100C 140-220 ohm. Take readings at two temps - 20 and 80 are probably easiest. Duke |
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am pretty sure it is rich.
I had a center muffler failier around Halloween, when I replaced It (both it and rear muffler had been off for 1½ months) I expected to see a big improvement in mpg that never appeared. It has been a little slugish as well. Was that temp sensor on your 86'? If so where is it exactly (side of the block?) and any tips on the test? I think all the temp sensors are suppose to be 2.6-2.8 k ohm. Sounds like you could really use a factory manual=) AKA looks like my dash gauge might also be shy by about 5 C. At 100C, the sensor read about 800-900 ohms. I was thinking the range should be 500-600 ohms-but don't know without checking a bosch book. I'm headed for emission testing soon too. My plan of attack is new plugs, oil change, and O2 sensor. It did not start today instantly at 75 F, so I'm guessing my mixture is off a bit. Michael
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Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
#24
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I found the water temp sensor Ohm's range at the temp chart in the /Engine Manual-Combustion Manual-07.3 Mechanical/electronic gasoline injection system (KE injection)-121 Testing electrical components of KE injection system. page 60 Temperature °C........Resistance kΩ -20........................15.7 -10.........................9.2 0............................5.9 10...........................3.7 20...........................2.5 30...........................1.7 40...........................1.18 50...........................0.84 60...........................0.60 70...........................0.435 80...........................0.325 90...........................0.247 Same resistance values apply to KE intake air temp sensor. I think this chart applies to these 2 sensors for all KE systems but don't know for sure. My water temp sensor is not in line with these values. I may also have a bad o2 sensor (wish I had a scope to get a clear view) Now I am waiting for my water temp sensor to arrive. 75°F ay...must be nice. Marty P.S. anyone know if there is a better tool than a 22mm crows foot to get these sensors off and on again?
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-Marty 1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible (Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one) Reading your M103 duty cycle: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html Last edited by A264172; 02-15-2005 at 12:16 AM. |
#25
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I will post my results when I have them. Marty
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-Marty 1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible (Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one) Reading your M103 duty cycle: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html |
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Good luck....
Been there last Saturday. Unless you've got a fancy Stallwillie or they revised the lift bracket.... revise your game plan. You'll need to take the 2 6mm allen bolts out and rotate the bracket out of the way. The bracket has the water oulet for the head.. so if you do it carefully- it won't leak. If not, drain the coolant and replace the o-ring seal while you are at it. Looking at mine- the coolant gauge sensor is out of range by a similar amount. The fan switch- I cannot remember it comming on even parking the car in 100F weather. So, I'm guessing that isn't right and it needs replacing too. There are seals underneath the sensors... Makes me wonder about the sensor on the intake too... Michael
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Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
#27
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Thanks for your input Michael I should be able to put my water temp sensor in in the morning in this snow we are having, and I'll post my results. Marty
__________________
-Marty 1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible (Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one) Reading your M103 duty cycle: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html Last edited by A264172; 02-17-2005 at 11:05 PM. |
#28
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Try www.stahlwille.com. Exchange rate sucks these days... but their wrenchs, sockets and definately the allen & torx sockets are better than snap-ons. Infact, I've thought about liquidating some of my mac and snap-on stuff on ebay and trading up to stahlwille.
The only on I see might be one of the MB a/c crowsfeet. 440-22? Not that hard to do... I'll let you know about the temp switch in a week or so. Michael
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Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
#29
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http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes/mb000589710300.jpg
I'm guessing this would work or you could make something similar. Kinda rich for my blood though... could use it on A/C and torquing those front struts=) Michael
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Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
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Well its been a while but I have finally got her running and am ready to have emissions retested. The first appointment I could get is for Tuesday at 10AM
So far I have: Changed the water temp sensor. New cap & rotor. Oil change. 2 big bottles of Techron in a tank of 93 octane. Being a nervous type I was looking at my duty cycle at X11 (engine fully warmed). It starts out at about 45% and fluctuates but it heads down to the just under 10% range and fluctuates around there (8-12%). Is this ok? I was thinking that it should fluctuate closer to 50% but don't really know. I just want to do whatever I can in the next bit of time before the test to improve my chances. I have read Duke's instructions for fully warming up these cars and keeping them at high idle right up to the test. But is this duty cycle reading an indication that there is still a problem with the lambda system?
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-Marty 1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible (Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one) Reading your M103 duty cycle: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html |
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