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  #1  
Old 03-30-2001, 02:40 PM
troydewan
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Hi

Actually, I am asking these questions to all who are familiar with C-Class or a 1995 C280. Anyhow, I need to take the door panels off the front and was wondering if the wood on them unscrews as well as the armrest portion - I would need to take the wood off and put it on a new door panel, and I may just need to put a new armrest on the other front passenger side door panel. Also, how easy is to change a power steering hose under the car? If I have car ramps, can I do it myself?

Also, another separate issue, I bought the dash hooks to pull out the instrument cluster because I temp indiciator light is out and lights for the engine temp area are dim, and I wanted to replace them, but the guy in parts at a dealer said the steering wheel would have to be taken out to change the bulbs - I find that hard to be true. Could anyhow tell me how to pull it out with the hooks and change the bulbs.

Also, what would you reccomend I put on the front window gear mechanism so that they go up more fluidly - some type of grease, perhaps?

Also, to work the upholstery on the inside of my C-pillar near rear window on the left-hand side is loose - sounds like a clamp is undone which causes an anoying rattle - how hard would it be to fix - the rear window wouldn't have to be taken out would it?

Thanks for all of your help!

Troy
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  #2  
Old 03-30-2001, 05:37 PM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Mission Hills in the City of San Diego
Posts: 2,352
Troy,
I just recently took my passenger door panel off. Now I am not sure that this "aftermarket" shell is the same as the original, but it is similar (as I haven't seen the original door panel on drivers side in a long time, the inside of the panel, I mean).
I was checking it out, and it did not look like the wood can easily be removed. Looked like there were permanent "clamps" or something of the sort. But if the wood does not need to go back in, they I wouldn't worry about it. Your best bet is to take of the door panel and see for yourself, then experiment.
As for the armrest, I can't be sure. I know the top of the armrest (top of the handle) is unscrewed when you take the door panel off (through the screw behind the plastic panel behind the door handle. I believe the other end of it, armrest area, is similar to the wood, but can't be sure.
As for the hose, I say go for it. If you can see both ends of it, and get the right hose and connectors and tools, and you are somehwat mechanically inclined, I'd say for for it. Why not change the fluid and filter why you are in there? If you need help on that, just say so, I did it successfully with relative ease.
I think you would still have enough room to change the bulbs without removing the steering wheel? But I am not sure, why don't you try it out to be sure.
As for the grease, do you mean mean for the wiper arm? I just used a teflon spray. I think any ordinary lubrication will do the trick. But you are probably better off getting a real grease if you want it last some time.
Good luck and let me know how it goes!
__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #3  
Old 03-30-2001, 08:37 PM
Gilly's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Evansville WI
Posts: 9,616
Troy: If you are talking about the window regulator grease, MB has a "long life" grease which is used in the regulator slides and also used for the sunroof tracks, also the power seat mechanism if you take one apart. Either try to get this grease, or use Lubriplate. On the C-class, the only models that you can get the cluster completely out without wrecking anything are the models with telescopic steering wheel. Otherwise, take the wheel off, it's not a big job. To pull the cluster, insert the hooks with the tip facing "up", insert 2 inches or so, then rotate the handles so the tips would be facing "in" towards the cluster, then slowly pull the handles, the hooks will index into ribs in the cluster (you'll see how it works when you get it out. FIRM and STEADY are the key words here, no jerking. If you have adjusting steering wheel, move it away from the instrument panel as far as possible. Otherwise I side with the dealer guy, you'll need to remove the wheel to actually REMOVE the cluster. You can try to if you want, but it's not worth the risk. Removing the steering wheel ain't rocket science, a experienced tech could do the whole job, bulbs and all in well under a 1/2 hour. The bulbs you won't have any trouble doing as long as you can look at the back of the cluster and visualize which bulbs must be blown.......Gilly
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  #4  
Old 03-31-2001, 01:15 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 368
Just wanted to add a few things.

If you have the telescoping wheel then you won't have a problem to pull out the cluster and test bulbs. However, if you don't it will still come out but you have to be super careful not to damage the dash or wheel. It's really not worth taking the risk. Keep in mind, if you are going to remove wheel you need to disconnect battery or else the air bag light will turn on and then you'll have to take it to the dealer for resetting. You also won't be able to turn ignition for bulb testing.
As for the C-pillar it won't come out unless you remove the rear seat. This is pretty simple. Press two clips and remove bottom portion, then remove 3 10mm bolts. Two on the side and one in the middle. Also, remove seatbelt bolt 17mm. The top part of seat can now be removed by lifting up and forward. Now you are ready to remove trim that cover the gap between body and interior. Look carefully between body and C pillar panel. You'll see three clips that have to be pushed in (two toward the back and the top one upwards) be careful not to damage anything. Once loose there is one more clip toward the back of the panel. Now the panel is ready to come out. The bottom part has to go slightly forward and then up.

Vinamg


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  #5  
Old 03-31-2001, 01:57 PM
MBenzNL's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 1,417
Hi Troy,

The trims on the door panels can be taken off although they are not screw tightened. At the back of the door panel you will see some pins with rectangle or round clamps on them. Both clamps have to be bended to get them off (the rectangle clamps are easier) and once they are off, you can straighten and use them again.
Normally melted plastic pins tighten the armrests. The plastic armrest comes with pins that stick through the door panel and are warm pressed to get secured to the door panel. If you take the armrest of, these plastic pressings have to be cut and you will have to drill a small hole in the middle of the pin and use a screw with ring to tighten the armrest again.

I presume that you have a leaking power steering (return) hose...Normally (9 out of 10 times) you don't need a new hose to solve this. Just unscrew the hose clamp, push the hose a little further on the power steering pipe and fasten the hose clamp again. This will do perfectly in most cases.

The W202 C class (without steering column adjustment) actually has not enough space to get out the dash cluster. If you take the cluster out carefully and use a thin (metal) strip to guide the clusters bottom over the back of the steering wheel and gently get the cluster out of its stuck position between dash and steering wheel towards the right, you CAN get the cluster out without removing the steering wheel and without damaging the dash...
Normally I leave in the steering wheel and remove the lower dash panel to push out the cluster from the back (instead of pulling it with the hooks).
If you want to remove the steering wheel, you need to remove the panel under the dash also (to stick a tool in the back of the steering wheel to untighten the air bag).
You do not need to disconnect the battery before removing the steering wheel. You only have to take care NOT to turn your ignition key after the airbag or the dash cluster is disconnected. It will light the SRS bulb, which has to be reset by the dealer.
So you can take out the airbag and the dash cluster with the battery connected and the ignition key in 0, but you have to take care NOT to switch the ignition key when either of these two parts is disconnected.
Always change ALL 4 dash illumination bulbs (otherwise you have to do the same thing next week again).

The front window gear mechanism (the vertical shaft) can be maintained with any kind of oil; no special requirements.

About the C pillar panel, vinamg has described how to remove that although you don't need to remove the seatbelt bolts.
The 3 screws in the backrest are for the 1 piece backrest. If you have the 4 pieces down folding backrest, you only need to take out one screw of the (left) corner and lift the piece to get it out.

greetingz,
__________________
1990 300SL-24
1993 C250D
with a minor 600+k kilometer
www.MBenzNL.com
(the Netherlands)
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  #6  
Old 03-31-2001, 04:38 PM
troydewan
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Thanks

Hey,

Thanks for all your help especially vinAMG and Steve. I don't have the car right now, but will get it next week. About the C-pillar area, the reason I think something is loose back there is becuase of the following logic

I tapped the right side of the upholsetery and it sounded all put together, but when I tapped the left side, something felt loose or like a clip was broken - would it be one the clips vinAMG was talking about that could have come loose and could cause a vibrating rattle over bumpy or uneven pavement - ie: if car isn't on perfectly smooth pavement - I hear the rattle and it sounds horrible for back-seat passengers. I don't think its anything in the the rear-deck area, but something in that C-pillar.

Also, I can buy just door panels (no armrests or anything else) for $269 USD from a place in Florida, but the wood lip on the inside of my front door panels that snaps into the clips near the window sills is broken/bent - I was wonderig if it could be fixed. I'm really thinking I need new(unbroken) door panels - is it wise to get them from a wrecker/used parts place - I can them for as little as 100 a side, but was wondering what would be the best thing to do or should I just get new ones which are quite expenseive and will run 650 USD dollars which seems crazy. Steve - do you anywhere where you are that would have ones like mine - look the picture below to see what mine look like:



About all the other stuff, I will be starting on it when I get the car back.

Sorry about all the questions - I just figured that since the car is six years old, it has a few problems that need to be fixed and then it will be good for a while.

I appreciate your help and will let you know how everything is going.

Thanks,
Troy

[Edited by troydewan on 03-31-2001 at 03:45 PM]
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  #7  
Old 03-31-2001, 04:56 PM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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Location: Mission Hills in the City of San Diego
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Troy,
I found the part number to that long-life lube grease from JIMF. It is: 001 989 14 51
It can be used for all of those. I am going to see if partsshop has it. GOod luck with everything. BTW, where is your car now? Is it getting fixed again?
__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #8  
Old 03-31-2001, 05:54 PM
troydewan
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YES

Hi David,

Thanks for the part number - Yes its getting fixed now - its all repaired from the accident - they fixed the leaks in the trunk area and everywhere else, but that vacuum pump going off wasn't right so they're working on that right now - MB has diagnosed the problem and found a leak in in a vacuum line inside the dash area or behind it I suppose - my insurance company just has to okay the repairs- then it will finally be out of the body shop and I can get down to doing these repairs.

Troy
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  #9  
Old 03-31-2001, 05:59 PM
David C Klasse's Avatar
CheFrac is Back!
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Mission Hills in the City of San Diego
Posts: 2,352
Troy,
That's good to hear. I am glad everything is beginning to work out with your car. I am going to buy some of the grease too and use it on my windows, seats and sunroof. I can tell my drivers window is slowing down a little. I hope this will help.
Also, do youhave the 98-00 headlights on your car??
__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #10  
Old 03-31-2001, 06:52 PM
troydewan
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David

Hey,

Yes everything well get sorted out soon.
No, I have origianl headlight seemblies (relectors and housing), but I purchased new glass lenses and put them on in November of 99 because the old ones were dingy, yellow, and discolored. I also added superwhite halogen bulbs and better foglight bulbs as well to improve the lighting. What are your thoughts on this - should I eventually get xenon headlmaps with the xenon lenses?

Troy
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  #11  
Old 03-31-2001, 08:20 PM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Mission Hills in the City of San Diego
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Troy,
That's what I mean, the new headlight assemblies, the clear part. They look really nice. Where did you get them? I want to get them really bad. They look like the headlights more so on a 98-00, correct?
I am definitly glad to hear about your car getting sorted out. What finally happened, how did they finally fix everything?
Also, about the bulbs, I like the idea of the whiter halogen bulbs, where did you get them??

As for the Xenon. If you do get them, I'd say only get original MB ones, but I think they are way too expensive, a bit over a grand, so I wouldn't get them, I definitly don't think it's worth it. But do whatever. HOpe to hear from you soon.
__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #12  
Old 04-01-2001, 11:21 PM
troydewan
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Posts: n/a
David

Hi

Yes, that made such a difference with my headlights - the only difference with the new ones is the inner refelcting material, with the 98-00 being variable focus reflecting - I believe that is correct, but my light at night is actually more white, almost blusish white - I will get you the number of the place where I ordered the bulbs.

I will pass on the xenons for now.

About the body shop,
I am waiting for the insurance company to okay the pulling out of the dash to repair the leaky vacuum line. Then I will let you know how everything goes.

Thanks,
Troy
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  #13  
Old 04-02-2001, 12:07 AM
David C Klasse's Avatar
CheFrac is Back!
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Mission Hills in the City of San Diego
Posts: 2,352
Troy,
Well I'm stoked for you that everything is workign out ok. That is really good to hear.
Yes, please do get me the number! How much were they? The second I have the number, I am ordering them! Were they difficult to put in?
__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #14  
Old 04-02-2001, 08:52 AM
MBenzNL's Avatar
MBenzNL
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: the Netherlands
Posts: 1,417
Troy,

It is very well possible that the upper corner clip of the C pillar panel came loose and fell down. It isn't difficult to look behind the panels too sort that out.

The difference between pre 98 and after 97 lights is the location of the high beam lights and fog lights. These two were switched with the model change.
I have tried to change to OEM MB Xenon lights, but figured it would be too expensive...

Can you send me a quality picture of your door panel/wood trim, so I can see what it is exactly what you need? I think/know that most of the parts are much cheaper here in the Netherlands, but I need to know exactly what you need.

greetingz,
__________________
1990 300SL-24
1993 C250D
with a minor 600+k kilometer
www.MBenzNL.com
(the Netherlands)
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  #15  
Old 04-02-2001, 01:16 PM
troydewan
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Hi Steve/doorpanel picture

Thanks for clarifying some of the issues, Steve.

Here is a picture from of what my door panel looks like - wood (zebrano) and everything else, except my color is grey with panel being lighter gray and top of door panel being a darker grey - please reference the earlier pic I posted for the color. Anyhow, I really want both front door panels that look like this new or used (without broken elements) Please let me know what you can do for me.



As the far the lights go (in the US) - non AMG C-class never had them in the front air dam - for all 94-2000 models - fog lights were always on inside with dual filament hi/lo on the outside of the assemblies. Only AMG c36/43 had foglights in front air dam.

PS - I live in Dallas, TEXAS - what would shipping rates be from the Netherlands and are they afforadble?

Thanks,

Troy
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