Hi Group, I'm getting ready to replace timing chain my on an 87 190E. I received the parts along with other stuff I'd order in the mail today from the dealer (Valley Motors in Cockeysville, MD) good price for this side of the country I think (003-997-82-94 genuine Mercedes-Benz @ $50.00). Well I just got a few questions before I start: 1. The package consists of 3 parts: the chain, the master link and a copper color face plate. Is this master link and a copper color face plate the one I'm using to install the new chain with? 2. I've read somewhere that there's a permanent and temporary master link, the temporary is use for repairing (connecting the new chain to the old chain so you can feed it through) and the permanent is that's it to be used permanently and crimped to stay on, is this true? 3. If 2 is yes, which came with the kit that I got, the permanent or temporary? (I think that copper is a soft metal to be use as a permanent) 4. What ever the answer on 3 is I would need the other link kit right, anyone have an MB number? 5. Being a perfect freak that I am is why I would not just use this master link and the copper color face plate for both purpose because what if it is the permanent then the thought of undoing it off the old from the new chain and using it again to connect the new chain together would put stress on this copper face plate. And if it’s a temporary the uncertainty and fear of that copper face plate breaking on me. Thanks in advance Thai GI

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GI but not GI Joe
They call me "The Thai GI"
Thai in the US Arsenal

The link with a copper plating is a press on link. This does require a special tool OR someone very!!! handy with hammers to peen over the PINS on the link.
This is the only style link available at dealers! YOU might try PARTSSHOP on this site as I'm sure they can get OE parts & maybe even the old style masterlink that has small e-clips.

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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

Thanks for the reply,

1. Actually I do have the crimping tool, got it from German Parts & Restoration in San Luis Obispo, CA the tool was P/N: M0050 @ $110.00. You also got to get the adaptor bit (for single chain in my case) P/N: M0050-B @ $24.00. So the total was $134.00 + Freight. Good price for these items I've found so far I think. Yes youall say why when I only will use it every 100,000 miles, well I got 2 Mercedes-Benz vehicles and also people in our local MBCA chapter can barrow it too.

2. Any how so this IS the permanent master link, just wasn't sure because the copper face plate seems to not be a good candidate for this purpose (copper is soft I think).

3. OK I'll do the research on the temporary master link to use for the replacement process, also will keep it for future use, it will be handy.

Thanks again
Thai GI sends…

__________________
GI but not GI Joe
They call me "The Thai GI"
Thai in the US Arsenal

Has anyone come up with a good way to 'peen' the rivets on the connecting link? I'm putting on new oil pump and timing chains.

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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Michael:

By far the best is a chain swaging tool like MB's. Second choice is a small ballpeen hammer and a body dolly to "back up" the pins -- hold the dolly firmly agains the back side of the chain and peen the ends of the pins over against the plate. Not as neat as the tool, but as long as the end of the pin is significantly larger than the hole in the plate, it's on to stay. The pins are relatively soft, so you won't have to really pound on it. Have a care to hit only the end of the pins, and don't let the dolly come out of contact with the back side as you hammer, or you will likely break the gear you will perforce be working over! Any piece of solid steel will work as a dolly -- the body ones are nice, though.

We had to actually press the plate onto the pins, it fits pretty tight.

Peter

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I could picture using a little 1/4 " socket and a small C-clamp to press the plate on, working from side-to-side. I was going to try the hammer and dolly method, but I was worried that I might bend the pins so that they weren't square with the back plate.

I would probably go for it now, or maybe buy the tool. At the time I needed the chain done on the 300E we hadn't had the car that long. It was our first Mercedes and I was still a bit apprehensive to dig into it. That feeling went away a long time ago. Anyway, I let the dealer do it. The labor was $275 (a few years ago).

__________________
D.H.

04 ML500
02 E430

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

1. Had some extra time so I was going over my old posts to “close” them, I think this is a good practice for us all so everyone knows how the problem was solved so people don’t ask it again…
2. Ok about the timing chain master link(s) I should "pay attention to detail" to what M.B.DOC said “copper plating” that was just it a plating only maybe for ID purpose that it was changed… Found this out when I try it on the tool, the plate was able to be magnetized.
3. First I was looking for the "C" clip type to use for the old chain to new chain part of the process only. I’d also call around but nobody had the "C" clip type for my car, so I just got another crimped on type master ($0.91). I remember the parts guy telling me the chain should come with one already. I told him what it was going to be use for, he quickly nodded with the “you know what you’re doing look” and gave me the part.
4. During the time for installation I just push the link in but didn’t crimp it, it’s a tight fit but not permanent (if you have a crimping tool you know what I mean), rotate the engine, took THAT link off and trashed it, then installed the link that came with the chain, push in then crimp it. All done. Oh I use tie wraps to keep the chain and sprocket together so it won’t jump.


Thai GI sends…

__________________
GI but not GI Joe
They call me "The Thai GI"
Thai in the US Arsenal