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  #1  
Old 07-21-2010, 10:10 AM
1978 240D W123--1983 230E
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kent UK
Posts: 55
W123 230e rear Subframe Mounts

Just purchased my second W123 and its a gem.

I was aware that there was a problem with the rear subframe rubber bush's/mounts so now need to think about replacing them.

Is there any nice step by step guides around or can anyone point out the do's and don't s to make this job as easy as possible.

Many thanks in advance.

Regards

Brett

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  #2  
Old 07-21-2010, 10:34 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
I hope you don't have the trouble I had

Rear subframe removal and bushing replacement

There are loads of other threads on this forum - do a search!

If the main bolts are stiff to get out I recommend trying to take the weight off of them when undoing by lifting the trailing arm a bit.

I have read (here) that you can replace the mounts with out removing the springs - I guess it is possible but I think it is a bordering on the unsafe as it is quite easy for the car / sub frame to move and thus making lots of potential problems! The main bolts are often quite difficult to get back in - I think it is a way easier job to do without the added influence of a spring.

For the record I've now done the job twice. It takes a bit of time the first time - but as with all things it is quite simple once you've done it before. Good luck.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #3  
Old 07-21-2010, 10:55 AM
1978 240D W123--1983 230E
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kent UK
Posts: 55
The Haynes manual makes it sound quite simple, surprisingly.
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  #4  
Old 07-21-2010, 02:01 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
It is and it isn't

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdc02254 View Post
The Haynes manual makes it sound quite simple, surprisingly.
Ha ha ye olde Haynes manual... don't get me started on my handy book of emergency toilet paper.

However, this time I have to sort of agree - this job is essentially very simple. But it helps if you do it on a car that wasn't built 30 years ago. Don't believe me? Do the job. And then do it again - the second time will be much easier!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Last edited by Stretch; 07-21-2010 at 02:02 PM. Reason: added an n't - makes all the difference
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  #5  
Old 07-21-2010, 02:17 PM
1978 240D W123--1983 230E
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kent UK
Posts: 55
does anyone have any part numbers for the bush kit?.
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  #6  
Old 07-22-2010, 03:13 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
You can find loads of part numbers for a W123 at manufacturer's web sites such as

www.febi.com
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #7  
Old 07-23-2010, 02:59 AM
1978 240D W123--1983 230E
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kent UK
Posts: 55
Just jacked the car up and removed the bushes, can anyone tell me if when replacing the bushes you take out the complete bush with what looks like a metal housing. I havnt received the new ones yet but I want to do as much as possible before I get them. I am hoping all of it should come out.


Last edited by cdc02254; 07-23-2010 at 03:31 AM.
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  #8  
Old 07-23-2010, 08:41 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Looks like it is stuck in there... you've got a similar problem to the one I had
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #9  
Old 07-23-2010, 09:08 AM
1978 240D W123--1983 230E
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kent UK
Posts: 55
Its all out now, wasnt to bad probably 2 hours in total. Bush's turned up and they are the wrong ones. Gives me time to paint the subframe in situ.
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  #10  
Old 07-29-2010, 03:22 AM
1978 240D W123--1983 230E
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kent UK
Posts: 55
Job Done,

Not as bad as I though but I guess that was due to the post's on this forum.

After welding up a tool and painting the subframe and any surrounding metalwork POR 15 I reckon it took about 5 hours.

Ill do a write up and and take some some photos of the tool I made.

Thanks everyone for your help, I couldn't have done it without you.

Regards Brett.

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