Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 02-18-2002, 02:35 PM
moedip
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Interesting note from article - NA antifreeze is has higher Ph value than MB antifreeze which attacks the plastic top of MB rads. Article states that the plastic becomes crumbly which causes neck of rad to break off. Could this be the reason for the threads on this site about broken rad necks??? Has anyone been using MB antifreeze and still have their rad neck break??
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 02-18-2002, 04:35 PM
Ali Al-Chalabi's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 1,837
The newer radiators have a metal insert in the neck to prevent them from breaking off, however, I am unsure of the year that the changes were made.

Does anyone know what year they started putting the metal insert in the neck of the radiator?
__________________
Ali Al-Chalabi

2001 CLK55
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel
2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy
Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 02-18-2002, 05:26 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: secret
Posts: 3,044
I'm not buying that bit about Ph crumbling plastic. In pool chemicals both Ph increaser and decreaser come in plastic bottles and I've never seen one crumble. Plastic is impervious to ph. What it isn't impervious to is heat. And hoses suffer from extreme heat also. I think what scares me most about the elevated temps is that we have this old mindset that we need a "safety" range. In the old days of 180F engines, we didn't sweat until they reached 210F. That was a long way on the old mechanical temp guages. Now, "green" engines are already set at 195F so there goes half of our "safety" range. After all is said and done, the engine that operates closest to it's thermostat setting will live the longest.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 02-18-2002, 05:46 PM
moedip
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
AH - But Cap'n - the containers for the Ph stuff for your pool is not subjected to ongoing temps of 90-110C plus 20 lbs pressure. I don't know if MBUSA is right (but I think they should know). That is why I asked if any one out there was using MB antifreeze consistently and still had the rad break. If most people reply that they used NA antifreeze and had broken necks - there may something to what they say. Any takers for comments on using MB antifreeze exclusively??
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 02-18-2002, 06:19 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: secret
Posts: 3,044
I think the radiator neck problem is stress related, If Ph were the culprit, then the entire top cap of the radiator would fail, not just the neck.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 02-18-2002, 06:41 PM
Dan Rotigel
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Not sure if this is related or not, but I just had to replace a plastic thermostat cap on my 190-16v. It had started to leak from the plastic 'nipple' that is the begining of a hose back to the resovoir, and the piece broke off completely when i tried to examine it. This is not a 'stressed' part in any way except incorrect anti-freeze and high temps. Just for the records, my h20 runs about 85-90, but my oil goes to 100-110. Go figure.

Dan
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 02-18-2002, 07:02 PM
blackmercedes's Avatar
Just a guy
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: St. Albert, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,492
Well, all plastic rads are subject to wear, and will break at some point.

It's common on Japanese cars. We use MB coolant in ALL our cars. We recently replaced the rad on our old 1988 Mazda 626. The dealership couldn't believe how long the rad lasted. Many of the mechanics have started using MB coolant in their own cars after seeing our 626.

I don't care why it works. It does, and costs little extra per mile, so I use it.

As to temperature, MB is one of only a few makes that has a REAL temp gauge, so ignore what you know with other cars.

My 1998 C230 reads a constant 83C at highway cruise with the AC compressor only pushing 2.5 bar at an ambient temp of 10C.

At an ambient temp of 32C, with the AC compressor reading 16.0+bar, my coolant temp reads about 97-101C, falling if highway speeds are reached consistently. Not much below 87C though.

Our 1998 E300 reads pretty much the same. Most late model MB's exhibit similar temp behaviour.
__________________
John Shellenberg
1998 C230 "Black Betty" 240K

http://img31.exs.cx/img31/4050/tophat6.gif
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 02-19-2002, 11:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: secret
Posts: 3,044
Think about this for a moment. The role of the thermostat is to force the engine to operate at a minimum temperature, i.e. the degree setting on the thermostat. It opens when that temp is reached. Now, whether it's beginning to open or all the way open is irrelative, because everything that happens from this point on, lock up of fan dampers, startup of aux fans etc. is for the purpose of lowering the coolant temp down to where the thermostat closes. Then the process repeats. If you're thermo is open all the time, then your cooling system is inadequate either by design or malfunction. A good cooling system, be it on a Mercedes or an earthmover should keep the engine near the thermostat setting whether it is at idle or under load. If a manufacturer wanted the engine at 100C, they would put a 100c thermo in it.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 02-21-2002, 02:43 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Kingston, Ont.
Posts: 201
would it be advisable to cover ones rad grill in winter to induce higher engine temps? mine wallows between 40-80 on the highway...
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 02-21-2002, 02:45 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: secret
Posts: 3,044
Sounds like you just need a new thermostat.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 02-21-2002, 03:13 PM
moedip
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
To Mercedes Fred
What kind of outdoor temps are we talking when you get 40-80 on your gauge on the highway???
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 02-21-2002, 03:29 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Kingston, Ont.
Posts: 201
the outside temp varies from -10C to -20C. Once im in town in stop and go traffic the temp guage goes past 80
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 02-21-2002, 03:48 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: secret
Posts: 3,044
WoW!! You don't need a thermostat, you need to move south! I have no experience with that kind of cold. Our freezers don't even get that cold down here. I'm out of this one.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 02-21-2002, 03:54 PM
moedip
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
here on the cold Canadian prairies - we have winter fronts with flaps. It is going to be below -15C close flaps - Daytime temp over -15C - open flaps - and always keep an eye on your temp guage.
Sounds a little strange that your guage will go below 80C at only -10C on the highway. Have your thermostat checked before resorting to a winter front. If your engine is not at aperating temp - excessive wear, poor gas mileage and other problems will exist. If you read higher up this thread you will see that the thermostat BEGINS to open at 80 to 87C.-engine is not holding temp - check your thermostat
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 07-13-2002, 01:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 41
Engine Temp what is normal????

Very interesting discussion. My 600SL runs at approximately 95-96 at steady cruise. But, the least amount of acceleration or a hill sends it 98C and the Viscous fan comes on 96-97. This fan is extremely loud and for top down driving it destroys the ambience. Any way to quiet it down but retain its efficent operation?. I wonder if the noise is the fan proper or the clutch.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Oil Additives Bill Wood Performance Paddock 6 08-24-2011 11:53 AM
Rust Free 82 300SD in Dallas TX needs new home!!! bodyart27 Diesel Discussion 47 08-07-2004 09:54 AM
Building a C43 Engine - Normal Asperation speedybenz Performance Paddock 4 03-15-2004 06:34 AM
1997 C36, W202 Chassis, overheating, or normal? kameraguy Tech Help 7 10-03-2003 07:49 PM
normal temp canvasboy Featured Cars 1 08-22-2001 11:59 PM



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:02 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page