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  #1  
Old 11-13-2002, 06:33 PM
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Location: Trenton, NJ
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Exclamation HELP - T-Chain R&R Q's - Car's Apart!

I started this morning with the replacement of the timing chain, tensioner, upper guide rails, valve stem seals, and cam oiler on my '87 560SEL. After about 8 hours with the assistance of a friend, I have gotten everything apart, the chain in and I think timed correctly (no interference when we turned the engine over afterwards), the cam oilers replaced, the tensioner out (came out during the chain swap to make things a little easier), and one of the guides replaced.

As you probably guessed by the subject header, I've now run into some trouble spots that I'd like some advice on...
1. The pin for the tensioner guide rail is much larger than the others and we're puzzling over how it is removed. Is it a threaded connection just like the smaller pins or does it have an Allen or Torx head to it?
2. Can the tensioner guide be removed without removing the right cam sprocket? If not (which is what I've read most places), is it possible to remove the sprocket and get it out of the way without breaking the chain again (I really don't want to have to find that master link again)?
3. Is the chain length an exact multiple of the valve timing? In otherwords, should the master link find its way back to the markes we made on the sprocket or not?

Thanks in advance for everyone's help. I've been taking some pictures as the project proceeds and will attempt to post them once everything is completed. Dispite the questions above, the process is not too hard - I hope I'm not scaring anyone off who is considering such a project.

jlc
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Jeff

'87 560SEL 267K (177K on motor) Blue/Blue
'98 Buick LeSebre 60K (wife's car)
'56 Imperial Sedan 124K
Past Cars:
'67 Dodge Monaco 130K (Sold)
'87 Chrysler 5th Ave 245K and going strong (sold)
'73 Plymouth Satillite 175K (sold)
'96 Chrysler LHS 80K (totaled)
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  #2  
Old 11-13-2002, 06:56 PM
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The guide pin for the TENSIONER rail isn't threaded at all! I always screw a TAP into the pin until it grabs & then pull out on the tap.
The rt cam gear must be un-bolted to remove the tensioner rail & then re-torqued back on after replacement.
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  #3  
Old 11-13-2002, 07:06 PM
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M.B. Doc,

I knew I could count on someone for a fast response, thanks.

Does the tensioner pin use the same 6mm threads that the other pins use?

And for the cam sprocket removal to pull the tensioner guide, can I do it without breaking the chain again?

Thanks
jlc

PS No major rush in responding - I've decided that I'm tired and only apt to make mistakes now so I won't go back to this until tomorrow. Besides, some of the other pins seem to need a night of soaking in Liquid Wrench in order to be conviced to come out.
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Jeff

'87 560SEL 267K (177K on motor) Blue/Blue
'98 Buick LeSebre 60K (wife's car)
'56 Imperial Sedan 124K
Past Cars:
'67 Dodge Monaco 130K (Sold)
'87 Chrysler 5th Ave 245K and going strong (sold)
'73 Plymouth Satillite 175K (sold)
'96 Chrysler LHS 80K (totaled)
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  #4  
Old 11-13-2002, 09:30 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Raleigh NC
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The tensioner pin is not threaded. I pull it out with an inst cluster hook.
The chain does not have to be seperated to remove the cam gear.Just remove the tensioner (which I,m sure you already have)
and the cam gear can be removed and dropped down and out to clear the chain.
Brian
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  #5  
Old 11-14-2002, 09:39 PM
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Brian,

You suggest an instrument cluster hook...while I haven't done much in that department (yet), I recall reading posts here on the subject. Isn't that tool not much more than a bent coat hanger? Could I use some reasonably stiff wire? How far in is the part of the pin that I'll be able to catch and pull on?

Thanks
jlc
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Jeff

'87 560SEL 267K (177K on motor) Blue/Blue
'98 Buick LeSebre 60K (wife's car)
'56 Imperial Sedan 124K
Past Cars:
'67 Dodge Monaco 130K (Sold)
'87 Chrysler 5th Ave 245K and going strong (sold)
'73 Plymouth Satillite 175K (sold)
'96 Chrysler LHS 80K (totaled)
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  #6  
Old 11-15-2002, 09:21 AM
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You could try that, but I,m not sure it will be stiff enough. You need to get it all the way at the back of the pin and work it down behind it.
Brian
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  #7  
Old 11-16-2002, 01:21 PM
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Just use a tap like Doc said. It works like a dream. I know some guys who swear a piece of vacuum hose works great too. Stuff it into the pin and see if it works. I've only done it that way once though, when a tap wasn't available.
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  #8  
Old 11-18-2002, 01:11 PM
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Location: Trenton, NJ
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Bought the EZ-Out

Thanks for all the suggestions. I actually did try the vacuum hose route but by that time I had put too much Liquid Wrench into the pin. So I ran out and got an EZ-Out set, which I really should have had all along, and the pin was out within 10 minutes of returning home with the tool.

I'm now done with the timing chain related stuff and have moved onto doing the valve stem seals. Three cylinders done before quiting last night. The only problem I've had on this part of the project is that I didn't get one piston to TDC. This meant that when I attached the compressed air, the engine spun backwards...unfortunately I had also left the wrench on the crank and this swung around and ripped off one of the tranny cooler lines. Needless-to-say the garage was a very colorful place for a moment That's also why I stopped at that point.

jlc
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Jeff

'87 560SEL 267K (177K on motor) Blue/Blue
'98 Buick LeSebre 60K (wife's car)
'56 Imperial Sedan 124K
Past Cars:
'67 Dodge Monaco 130K (Sold)
'87 Chrysler 5th Ave 245K and going strong (sold)
'73 Plymouth Satillite 175K (sold)
'96 Chrysler LHS 80K (totaled)
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  #9  
Old 11-18-2002, 03:04 PM
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At least it was a cooler line and not your chin.
Brian
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Raleigh NC.
www.behindthestar.com
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2002, 05:12 PM
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No need to use air pressure. Just get the piston to TDC. A lot easier and less complicated.
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  #11  
Old 11-19-2002, 10:24 AM
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Brian,

Good point. I actually was standing to the side of the car at the time and did think about what would have happened to hands, faces, or any other body parts that might have been in the way. Sort of like what happens when you get your fingers too close to the fan or belts when the engine is running only slower.

As for the need for air pressure, I agree it isn't 100% necessary as I ended up doing the two cylinders that kept spinning the engine without it to avoid further damage. However, it does make re-installing the valve spring and keepers a little easier as the valve stays up at max height (fully closed). The air is also very helpfull when you get ahead of yourself and remove the keepers with the cylinder not quite where it should be.... Watching that stem drop to just below the top of the guide was close to a heart attack. Fortunately I reconnected the air and was able to coox it back up. Pulling the head just wasn't in my schedule for this week.

jlc
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Jeff

'87 560SEL 267K (177K on motor) Blue/Blue
'98 Buick LeSebre 60K (wife's car)
'56 Imperial Sedan 124K
Past Cars:
'67 Dodge Monaco 130K (Sold)
'87 Chrysler 5th Ave 245K and going strong (sold)
'73 Plymouth Satillite 175K (sold)
'96 Chrysler LHS 80K (totaled)
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