The looks of a simple 240D, the acceleration of a 300turbo and the fuel economy of a 190d.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

It could be a car that looks like just an old azz car from the 80's to your average person but is actually the baddest super w123 around.

note: every classic benz (and some newer benzes too) gets my attention. i don't think this is true for most people.

Sleeper (noun) - more than meets the eye, highly customized and/or high performance camouflaged by an everyday ordinary appearance.

See some of Greazers other post (in other threads) describing his other planed upgrades to this vehicle.

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Current fleet
2006 E320 CDI
1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped

former members
1984 300D "Blues Mobile"

1978 300CD "El Toro"

Stretch-
The 3 piece prop shaft that I found for w115s is part 1154104106. In the US, supposedly it appeared in a 220 and 230.4 (no idea what that is), and elsewhere in the world it appeared in a 200, 220, 230, and 230.4.

The 3 piece prop shaft that I found for w123s is part 1234103106. In the US, supposedly it appeared in a 230, and elsewhere in the world it appeared in the 200, 230, and 230T (no idea if that is T=turbo or T=stationwagon/estate).

So it appears that the smaller gasoline engines tended to have 3 piece prop shafts.

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

Well done Sherlock - thanks a lot! (The T is station wagon in the case above)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Here's a link for the picture



According to the information posted on BenzWorld by 200T the top shaft in the picture is for a W123 diesel (300D) 5 speed and the one below is for a 230 4 speed (for the link to the original BW thread see my previous post)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

any chance the 230 was a coupe?

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Well, not so much work for the last month or more. Finally, found some time last night. I found a really nice, almost virtually rust free battery tray and I bead blasted it and painted it. Not the best investment in time, but I got to do some restoration. Nice and dry this AM. Also, got my new 50 Plate HE in and it's time for my 3rd WVO system. This time, I have worked out all 4 major issues in any WVO system and I am thinking this will be the last version. Greazzer 3.0 so to speak. I am hoping to find "some" time this weekend to relocate my battery to the trunk and at least mount the new battery tray with HE. This beast should capture most of the engine's free BTUs of heat and keep the WVO at a nice 180F. It holds over a quart. Just looking now for a suitable thermal blanket. I used to have a big piece of UH-1 helicopter thermal blanket material but I guess that got lost in the shufflle over the years. Any one out there with something like this? I need about 4 square feet, give or take. The HE measures 12"x5"x 6"

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I picked up the AVL Bund 875 Diesel Fuel Injection Timer / Gun. Very very pleased so far. I need to source the missing cable. This way, I can exactly time the IP without using the drip method or any other method, and I understand this is perhaps the most exact method to time the IP. I also need to translate the owners manual -- it's in German

I owe some pictures.

Updates thus far:

1. EURO Front and Rear Bumpers
2. Rear Mud Flaps
3. New Oil Pan which was really needed to fix the dip stick tube-- what a PITA!
4. Interior upgrades

Almost ready to wrap up:

1. Electric Water Pump
2. Finalized Greazzer 3.0 WVO system
3. NON-EGR manifolds; painted and modified-- Very happy with this, and my California air box.
4. Euro Rear Headrests

In the next month or so:

Installation of RollGuys A/C Sanden Compressor System. Got the entire sha-bang from Secondaries. Brutal heat coming this way by June 1st ... so time for the R-12 (got my 608 license) and time to chill....

Then, time for some serious restoration before the brutal heat sets in --
1. SOUND PROOFING
2. Interior Dye Time

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Sound proofing - what are you planning there then?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The only way to go :

Product Prices | Sound Deadener Showdown

Don is a GREAT guy, and he actually knows his stuff. Not just sales. He knows the science behind the soundproofing. Plus, he doesn't do the typical "just put on layers" of really high priced product. I am actually very happy that he upgraded his webpage where he lays out the information. There are other links where he did a price comparison and breakdown of the 5 or 6 players in the car sound proofing business. VERY VERY professional and incredibly informative and it shows how much marketing gets involved with this aspect of automotive upgrades.

I am shooting to do the entire car before it gets brutally hot in sunny South Carolina.

geez, this looks like an awesome product, and the price is real decent for soundproofing stuff. Take a lot of pics when you install it!

I ordered a roll of stuff made by B-quiet which im now regretting, which I was happyish with, but its awful thin. It made some effect, but the installation process and the thin nature of the material feels like you are burnishing tinfoil onto the floor.

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

I went ahead and decided to keep my Euro rear headrests. I really like them. Not the best picture, especially since the thunderstorms look like they are going to hit pretty soon.

Also, got the Euro rear and front bumpers installed. I temporarily removed the rear mudflaps since I wanted to see if the rust issues could be an easy fix on the rear quarter -- maybe.

As for the brackets which mount on the side for the front Euro bumper, does anyone have a picture / part # ? They have to be something different than the "P" brackets since the holes are way bigger.

Also, toying with the idea of chipping in and buying a quart or two from Daw_Two and the Henna Red. Hmmm

I took some of my down time just to organize and create a list of car projects for this car. Pretty long list ... just need to stay focused to tackle one at a time vs. jumping from one to the other ... which is a bad habit ...LOL RIght now in the middle of the power window to manual window conversion which I want to wrap up before Wednesday, since I am thinking that is the day the car goes to the shop to get new fenders, new hood, and paint job for the front clip and my AMG air chin installed. I think that along with the Sanden A/C will be the turning point for the old girl ...

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Which product you planning to use?

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Hey Tom,

Currently, I got the panels. 3-4 per door and 4 behind the back seat. Then, the mass vinyl on the floors and behind the back seat, and if I have time down the road and I feel really fiesty, up under the dash. There is this thin foam stuff which I am going to experiment on the door panels soon. I can say that the aluminum foiled panels which go into the doors really do make a huge difference. You are only supposed to cover 25% of the surface area. The video on the Vendor's site does not do justice to the noise reduction. If you just add one panel (they look like 6"x6" or so) and tap the metal, the noise goes from that annoying typical metal sound to a dead "thud". That has been my experience.

I am thinking overall this is a "major" product, one best done where one just starts on a Friday night and work thru the process until Sunday. Come and go, take your time, piddle ... The only thing that would be outside of Don's web site would be some insulation - sound deadening material on the roof, under the liner. I would use the panels then some Dynamat which is supposed to stick on its own. I am waiting until I install my glass moon roof before I tackle this.

Right now I am in the middle of R&D, and getting products. That is why I am thinking this is a long weekend project. I actually started too many projects and I have a bunch which are half baked ... plus I will be out of commission from next Thursday for about 1-2 weeks because of surgery. However, I fully appreciate summer is coming up and the brutal heat puts a damper on car projects, so I have to get everything done by mid June-ish.

I will post some pictures since Don spent a ton of time with me last year going over every single aspect of this project ... pictures of doors, hoods, trunk, et cet., and explaning how this stuff works.

Overall, for about $300 - $400, to completely sound proof the car and seeing some very tentative results, well worth every single penny.

That is a really interesting web site. Not sure how the different MB models are on the floors, but my current 190 has molded panels on the bottom of the carpet that contour to the floor shape. How would one adape the mass vinyl to that?

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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need.