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#31
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Ol' Yellow ('83 W123) marks its territory as all old dogs too. It runs through a quart of 5W40 Mobile 1 Turbo oil per 1000 miles leaving spots.
My tech told me that the trans mount bolts penetrate the interior of the block and therefore might be a source of this leaking, in addition to a possible bad rear main seal. This seems rather unlikely to me and that it's a more likely the rear main seal or nothing. He's already done the oil filter canister gasket R&R. Thoughts? Thanks!
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- Neil '83 W123 (Ol' Yeller) '82 HP 34C |
#32
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(Use a clean white snot rag - pink / red oil is transmission oil - black oil is usually engine) At risk of starting oil thread debacle - rather thin that isn't it?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#33
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Black as an Andrew Wyeth painting of a black cat in a coal chute at midnight.
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- Neil '83 W123 (Ol' Yeller) '82 HP 34C |
#34
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Quote:
Quite likely a rear crankshaft seal but you can't rule out the ball bearings in the oil ways in the block positioned behind the adapter plate. I've seen at least one thread on the subject...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#35
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If you have the link that you allude to, I would appreciate it.
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- Neil '83 W123 (Ol' Yeller) '82 HP 34C |
#36
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And guess what? I can't find a single thread talking about those ball bearings leaking at the end of the oil ways - typical! If I find the one(s?) I'm thinking of I'll post it later (probably much later). In the mean time have a look at chapter 01-130 in the FSM for the procedure of replacement of these balls - that tells you how to replace them if they are leaking
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#37
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Stretch I remember a thread about the ball also, maybe a couple years back. maybe LEATHERMANG mentioned it? dang, haven`t seen him in a long time.
Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#38
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I had some PM contact with him about 9 months ago - he was talking about getting rid of his W123 stuff (thanks for the tip - didn't help in google though)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#39
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Stretch and Charlie;
Many thanks for the data!
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- Neil '83 W123 (Ol' Yeller) '82 HP 34C |
#40
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Thanks to you experts, it's clear to me that to do the rear main seal properly and safely, the engine has to be removed and flipped up-side-down.
Approximately how many hours would it be to R&R the engine and replace both the front and rear main oil seals? Thanks!
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- Neil '83 W123 (Ol' Yeller) '82 HP 34C |
#41
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It depends on your skill level and experience. The first time I pulled an engine out of a 'Benz, it seemed to take the entire day. After doing it a few more times, I can probably completely pull one in about 2 hours. Installing it is a different story. It takes more time to install and get running than it does to just remove, probably about double....Rich
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#42
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Quote:
Tucker |
#43
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Any assembly lube or even motor oil will work. The proper sealant for the upper pan (metal to metal) is Anaerobic type, and will work just fine for the seal end joints as well.
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#44
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The reason I ask, is I am doing a OM617 swap into a Land Rover Defender using Robert Davis' kit. One of the main items on the kit is a revised upper oil pan to clear Rover front end. If you were successful doing the rear seal in the frame I am guessing I could do the same. I am thinking of just changing the pan and that seal and leaving things alone as I am new to the motor (and motor work in general). But if down the road a leak develops it will be good to know I have that option. Great build and thanks in advance for any info. If interested, here is a write-up of my build (I am using Toyota 3rd's in the axles BTW): Blue Mule - 1986 110 3dr Build - Defender Source -Don |
#45
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Answer
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IMO it is also more risky/dangerous working this way. .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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