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  #31  
Old 02-01-2014, 07:58 AM
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Ol' Yellow ('83 W123) marks its territory as all old dogs too. It runs through a quart of 5W40 Mobile 1 Turbo oil per 1000 miles leaving spots.

My tech told me that the trans mount bolts penetrate the interior of the block and therefore might be a source of this leaking, in addition to a possible bad rear main seal.

This seems rather unlikely to me and that it's a more likely the rear main seal or nothing. He's already done the oil filter canister gasket R&R. Thoughts?

Thanks!

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  #32  
Old 02-01-2014, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ol' Yeller View Post
Ol' Yellow ('83 W123) marks its territory as all old dogs too. It runs through a quart of 5W40 Mobile 1 Turbo oil per 1000 miles leaving spots.

My tech told me that the trans mount bolts penetrate the interior of the block and therefore might be a source of this leaking, in addition to a possible bad rear main seal.

This seems rather unlikely to me and that it's a more likely the rear main seal or nothing. He's already done the oil filter canister gasket R&R. Thoughts?

Thanks!
You need to dip ya wick in the droppings so to speak to see if they are engine oil or transmission oil offerings.

(Use a clean white snot rag - pink / red oil is transmission oil - black oil is usually engine)

At risk of starting oil thread debacle - rather thin that isn't it?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
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  #33  
Old 02-01-2014, 08:26 AM
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Black as an Andrew Wyeth painting of a black cat in a coal chute at midnight.
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  #34  
Old 02-01-2014, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Ol' Yeller View Post
Black as an Andrew Wyeth painting of a black cat in a coal chute at midnight.
You have your answer my good sir

Quite likely a rear crankshaft seal but you can't rule out the ball bearings in the oil ways in the block positioned behind the adapter plate. I've seen at least one thread on the subject...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #35  
Old 02-01-2014, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
You have your answer my good sir

Quite likely a rear crankshaft seal but you can't rule out the ball bearings in the oil ways in the block positioned behind the adapter plate. I've seen at least one thread on the subject...
Thanks. And the answer to my question whether the trans-engine bolts penetrate the interior of the block?

If you have the link that you allude to, I would appreciate it.
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  #36  
Old 02-01-2014, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Ol' Yeller View Post
Thanks. And the answer to my question whether the trans-engine bolts penetrate the interior of the block?

If you have the link that you allude to, I would appreciate it.
Those bolts don't penetrate into the oil ways in the block.

And guess what? I can't find a single thread talking about those ball bearings leaking at the end of the oil ways - typical! If I find the one(s?) I'm thinking of I'll post it later (probably much later). In the mean time have a look at chapter 01-130 in the FSM for the procedure of replacement of these balls - that tells you how to replace them if they are leaking
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #37  
Old 02-01-2014, 12:24 PM
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Stretch I remember a thread about the ball also, maybe a couple years back. maybe LEATHERMANG mentioned it? dang, haven`t seen him in a long time.

Charlie
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  #38  
Old 02-01-2014, 12:58 PM
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I had some PM contact with him about 9 months ago - he was talking about getting rid of his W123 stuff (thanks for the tip - didn't help in google though)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #39  
Old 02-01-2014, 01:19 PM
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Stretch and Charlie;

Many thanks for the data!
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  #40  
Old 02-04-2014, 12:02 AM
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Thanks to you experts, it's clear to me that to do the rear main seal properly and safely, the engine has to be removed and flipped up-side-down.

Approximately how many hours would it be to R&R the engine and replace both the front and rear main oil seals?

Thanks!
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  #41  
Old 02-04-2014, 12:13 AM
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It depends on your skill level and experience. The first time I pulled an engine out of a 'Benz, it seemed to take the entire day. After doing it a few more times, I can probably completely pull one in about 2 hours. Installing it is a different story. It takes more time to install and get running than it does to just remove, probably about double....Rich
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  #42  
Old 02-18-2014, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
Put assembly lube on all main journals, and the seal. Lower crank back into the upper bearings.
What type of assembly lube?
Quote:
Install the main caps and torque to proper specs (66 ft. lbs.). Install the oil pump. Trim the seal leaving it 1 mm proud of the deck on both sides. Be careful not to score the surface of the crank. Install the other half of the seal in the upper pan and install the pan using the proper metal to metal sealant (described in another thread).
Recommended sealant? Bolting this back together tomorrow, will post some pics of the process with the engine in place

Tucker
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  #43  
Old 02-19-2014, 01:28 AM
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Any assembly lube or even motor oil will work. The proper sealant for the upper pan (metal to metal) is Anaerobic type, and will work just fine for the seal end joints as well.
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  #44  
Old 02-19-2014, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by tucker74 View Post
What type of assembly lube?

Recommended sealant? Bolting this back together tomorrow, will post some pics of the process with the engine in place

Tucker
Hi Tucker - were you able to do this job with the motor still in the frame?

The reason I ask, is I am doing a OM617 swap into a Land Rover Defender using Robert Davis' kit. One of the main items on the kit is a revised upper oil pan to clear Rover front end. If you were successful doing the rear seal in the frame I am guessing I could do the same. I am thinking of just changing the pan and that seal and leaving things alone as I am new to the motor (and motor work in general). But if down the road a leak develops it will be good to know I have that option. Great build and thanks in advance for any info.

If interested, here is a write-up of my build (I am using Toyota 3rd's in the axles BTW): Blue Mule - 1986 110 3dr Build - Defender Source

-Don
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  #45  
Old 02-19-2014, 11:37 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverDon View Post
Hi Tucker - were you able to do this job with the motor still in the frame?

The reason I ask, is I am doing a OM617 swap into a Land Rover Defender using Robert Davis' kit. One of the main items on the kit is a revised upper oil pan to clear Rover front end. If you were successful doing the rear seal in the frame I am guessing I could do the same. I am thinking of just changing the pan and that seal and leaving things alone as I am new to the motor (and motor work in general). But if down the road a leak develops it will be good to know I have that option. Great build and thanks in advance for any info.

If interested, here is a write-up of my build (I am using Toyota 3rd's in the axles BTW): Blue Mule - 1986 110 3dr Build - Defender Source

-Don
It is theoretically possible, but requires more effort, time, and equipment than simply removing the engine.

IMO it is also more risky/dangerous working this way.

.

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