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  #1  
Old 05-15-2011, 05:12 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Interesting fix - thanks for sharing.

I see you used the crank and torquing it in place to position the seal in the groove whereas the FSM says to carefully roll into the groove...

...as I said in another thread (Rear main seal) I have been told by an engine builder here in the Netherlands that if this seal isn't seated correctly it can cause localised heating (due to friction) that can knacker the nearest main bearing.

Now I don't know for sure if that is gospel - but it is what I was told.

I would have re-lifted the crank after torquing to make sure it had seated nicely.

Let us know how it goes.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #2  
Old 07-27-2011, 12:37 AM
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ROLLGUY
 
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I finished the job a while back, and NO LEAKS!!! It was well worth the effort and expense to do the job right.
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  #3  
Old 07-27-2011, 01:50 AM
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Location: central Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
....I see you used the crank and torquing it in place to position the seal in the groove whereas the FSM says to carefully roll into the groove...
Army, I thought when he said this: "Use a 1/4 drive socket extension to force the seal in the groove, rolling it on the seal surface. " that he was doing what you refer to and the FSM says to do.........???
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  #4  
Old 07-27-2011, 03:35 AM
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...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Army, I thought when he said this: "Use a 1/4 drive socket extension to force the seal in the groove, rolling it on the seal surface. " that he was doing what you refer to and the FSM says to do.........???
Pushing my rope seal in place took a lot of effort - the desire to rub is immense! Roll - don't rub!

Hats off to ROLLGUY for managing this with a 1/4" drive socket extension.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 07-27-2011, 10:01 PM
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ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,260
Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Pushing my rope seal in place took a lot of effort - the desire to rub is immense! Roll - don't rub!

Hats off to ROLLGUY for managing this with a 1/4" drive socket extension.
The hardest part is forcing the seal into the pin. The rest of the seal rolls in quite easy with a thin round object (1/4" drive extension). You must also use assembly lube on the seal (making sure not to get any lube on the ends of the seal where the two halves join).
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