380SL Diesel Conversion Project - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mach4 · #16 11-27-2011, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StaggerLee

The oil pan from a non-turbo engine will not work on a turbo engine.

Good to know. (Aren't these forums great!)

As I continue to do research for an upper pan solution that will enable me to not have to hack up my sub-frame, I'm wondering if an upper pan from an earlier turbo engine might work.

The following post hints that it may be possible

Quote:

Originally Posted by rs899

The upper oil pan on the early engine that fits the W116 is smooth. On the W123 and W126 it has stiffening ribs. The later engine will not fit a W116 chassis without swapping (or grinding ) the ribs. This would be to clear the rear subframe bar that the W116 has. An early engine will fit the W123 or W126 chassis , but not the other way around, unless you address the oil pan.

The interference I'm seeing is with the "ribbed section" of the upper pan, so I'm wondering if a W116 OM617.950 pan might be the answer.

Would the bolt pattern on this pan match up?

ROLLGUY · #17 11-27-2011, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

Good to know. (Aren't these forums great!)

The interference I'm seeing is with the "ribbed section" of the upper pan, so I'm wondering if a W116 OM617.950 pan might be the answer.

Would the bolt pattern on this pan match up?

My brother and I put a turbo engine from an early 116 in his '81 300D (123). If I remember correctly (sorry, I seldom do), the upper pan did not have the large ribs that the later pans have. I remember that we had to JB Weld the bottom of the pan (cracked when pulling the engine at P-A-P), and it was smooth. I don't have both available to compare, but I could call my bro' and have him look....Rich

t walgamuth · #18 11-27-2011, 05:05 PM

You can check the part number for the pan gasket, perhaps. (Does the upper pan take a gasket?)

ROLLGUY · #19 11-27-2011, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

(Does the upper pan take a gasket?)

No. Anaerobic sealant:
"Anaerobic adhesives and anaerobic sealants cure in the absence of air or oxygen. They are designed for fastening and sealing applications in which a tight seal must be formed without light, heat or oxygen. "

rs899 · #20 11-27-2011, 05:38 PM

Quote:

The interference I'm seeing is with the "ribbed section" of the upper pan, so I'm wondering if a W116 OM617.950 pan might be the answer.

Would the bolt pattern on this pan match up?

Yes, I think so. I can't imagine why they would have drilled the block differently when they went to the later pan. Then again...

IIRC, these pans have been swapped before...but not by me. I must have been referencing someone who did it.

mach4 · #21 11-28-2011, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

My brother and I put a turbo engine from an early 116 in his '81 300D (123). If I remember correctly (sorry, I seldom do), the upper pan did not have the large ribs that the later pans have. I remember that we had to JB Weld the bottom of the pan (cracked when pulling the engine at P-A-P), and it was smooth. I don't have both available to compare, but I could call my bro' and have him look....Rich

If that would be possible, I'd truly appreciate it.

I've scoured the forums and the internet for pictures to try to get an idea whether there is a non-rib upper pan that would provide the clearance needed and bolt on but turned up nothing.

I've put off cutting into the subframe until I can determine whether an alternate pan will give me what I need.

Thanks

t walgamuth · #22 11-28-2011, 08:58 AM

If the unribbed pans do not interchange you could easily remove some ribs as needed.

1960mog · #23 11-28-2011, 01:11 PM

The oil pan from a 116 SD 617.950 will fit the later turbo engines.
The oil filter on the 617.910 and on the m110 engines are pointing down,
but they are mounted more to the front of the engine.
Even if you make an adapter for this filters and mount them on your 617.95* engine, the filter will be to far back, the sub frame will be in the way.

Stretch · #24 11-28-2011, 01:32 PM

There are plenty of modified OM617 without the original oil filter housing solutions out there - as in on the forum - most seem to be fitted in trucks and 4X4s

mach4 · #25 11-28-2011, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1960mog

The oil pan from a 116 SD 617.950 will fit the later turbo engines.

The oil filter on the 617.910 and on the m110 engines are pointing down,
but they are mounted more to the front of the engine.

Oil Pan Went to the PNP today and got the oil pan (upper and lower) from an 80 300SD without the ribs. It will take just a bit of time to get the new oil pan mounted, the subframe back in the car and drop in the engine for a trial fit to know if it will eliminate the need for a cut-and-weld subframe mod, but a preliminary assessment looks very promising. Certainly a major interference in the form of the ribs on the '85 300D's pan are eliminated. (If there is still some interference, I'm thinking that my solution at that point would be to shim the engine up 1/2" and shim the subframe down 1/2").

Oil Filter Housing I had assumed that the oil filter housing on the OM617.910 that I got my engine arms off of would mount in the same place but point down. As 1960mog pointed out (but I failed to grasp) the oil filter on that block actually mounts ahead of the engine support and has a different mounting configuration altogether.

So, back to the previous plan to remote mount the original filter. Which is kind of a bummer since I'll have an additional 7 opportunities for potential oil leaks as well as the potential for additional flow restriction and three rather expensive hoses.

By the way, it was quite an ordeal to get the pan. We had the engine out ready to pull the pan when we discovered this -

So, found another 300SD and did it all over again. Most of the time you kind of wonder why a particular car that doesn't have any obvious crash damage was sent to the yard, but in this case something obviously let loose catastrophically.

t walgamuth · #26 11-28-2011, 10:36 PM

They're always there

for a reason!

mach4 · #27 11-29-2011, 07:54 PM

Today I got the polyurethane for filling the motor mounts, transmission mount and the subframe mounts.

Here is how they turned out.

I've seen so many threads about collapsed motor mounts I thought it would be a good idea to try to prevent that from happening by supporting the entire mount with urethane. I got a relatively soft compound (Shore hardness 75D) so it wouldn't feel like solid mounts. Since I'm fighting clearance issues on the swap, this is good insurance to keep what I've got over time - both on subframe clearance and hood clearance.

Just for comparison, here is what a typical motor mount looks like before being filled with urethane.

By the way, this was the condition of the transmission mount on the donor car when I pulled the transmission.

I don't ever plan on having mine get like this! The motor mounts were not nearly as bad, but were definitely collapsed.

I'll also do the subframe mounts since those are prone to collapse as well. Those are a little more tricky and I'll need to use a release agent to make sure I can get them out in the future, if needed.

And as a more general solution, this strategy might just be the ticket for all the cheap aftermarket motor mounts so many are complaining about on the forum.

Stretch · #28 11-30-2011, 03:12 AM

Sorry - I'm being thick - what's the reason for filling up the mounts? Just to stop them from collapsing? Or is it also related to the metal stay part of the engine mount <= the bit that attaches to the engine?

t walgamuth · #29 11-30-2011, 06:22 AM

He is wanting to limit engine movement because of tight clearance in several places.

My comment about the sub frame is that cutting away a portion which has the meeting flange and welding in a section that is essentially vertical and picking up a half or three quarters of an inch is not likely to weaken it significantly and it sounds as if the op has some pretty excellent welding skills and the right equipment to do the job.

Those cross members are common with the 115 chassis I believe so they are not too hard to come by if one wanted to go back to a stock configuration.