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  #1  
Old 04-13-2014, 02:33 AM
BenzTurbo's Avatar
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almost forgot! here are some pictures
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Can an SD brake booster be wedged into a W123?-20140412_170813.jpg   Can an SD brake booster be wedged into a W123?-20140412_170820.jpg  
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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect
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  #2  
Old 04-13-2014, 04:21 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenzTurbo View Post
almost forgot! here are some pictures
Nice you didn't by any chance notice a part number on it did you?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #3  
Old 04-13-2014, 04:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Nice you didn't by any chance notice a part number on it did you?
No problem. The ATE sticker says "3.6857-1201.4" and under that is "0183H4F"
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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect
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  #4  
Old 04-13-2014, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenzTurbo View Post
No problem. The ATE sticker says "3.6857-1201.4" and under that is "0183H4F"
I reckon there should be a zero in front of that number

03.6857-1201.4

There are some hits for that number on the interweb but it seems to be pretty rare

This one seems to be the most likely one used in a first gen 300SD

ATE 03.6855-1202.4 (03685512024) Brake Booster

But I don't know what the difference between these two is
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 04-13-2014, 05:05 AM
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Thanks google says that's also on 107s...

...I'll see if I can track down a Mercedes number for that
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 04-13-2014, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Thanks google says that's also on 107s...

...I'll see if I can track down a Mercedes number for that

I posted the MB part# in post #31, and which vehicles it was used on.

Here I copied it .........


got to thinking about which cars this 002-430-68-30 Booster was used on. This thread starts out mentioning it coming off a SD.


It looks like this Booster was first used in 1968 on the 280SL, 280SE and 300SEL and the majority of models through 1985. W107, W108, W109 W113, W116, W126.




Charlie
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  #7  
Old 04-13-2014, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
I posted the MB part# in post #31, and which vehicles it was used on.

Here I copied it .........


got to thinking about which cars this 002-430-68-30 Booster was used on. This thread starts out mentioning it coming off a SD.


It looks like this Booster was first used in 1968 on the 280SL, 280SE and 300SEL and the majority of models through 1985. W107, W108, W109 W113, W116, W126.




Charlie

Ha! Sorry Charlie I'm as blind as a bat today - I could have saved me a whole load of nut scratching!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #8  
Old 04-13-2014, 05:11 AM
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I wonder why it wasn't used on w123's originally. Fuse box cover is easier to remove too. The only thing I don't love with the install is the large vacuum line is now too long. I had to buy a new one a couple years ago so the plastic is not brittle so maybe I can cut it to take some length out. I'm guessing the line can then be heated and slid back over one of barbed fittings?
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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect
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  #9  
Old 04-13-2014, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenzTurbo View Post
... I'm guessing the line can then be heated and slid back over one of barbed fittings?
Possible - but in my experience with old plastic unlikely (sorry).
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #10  
Old 04-01-2016, 10:36 PM
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I thought I'd add some info, since I just did this and was reading through some threads regarding brake upgrades and this one needs some straight facts...

The 123 and 126 brake master cylinders are the same. Same part number. That's why you can use the "stock" 123 MC. The only difference with the 126 cars is that the ones that have ABS have a different MC, which is neither here nor there for this upgrade.

Also be aware that you'll probably have to do something with the vacuum lines. The too-long 123 main line works, but it does move the check valve/splitter farther away from the other lines and those become too short. So either shorten the check valve to brake booster section by about 2" or make the smaller lines longer. I plan on making a custom main line and then doing some cleaner/more reliable work to the vacuum system. Good opportunity to do that.

I also see no way you can do this without removing the master cylinder completely from the car, so plan on doing a flush, along with any other brake work at the same time.

-Rog
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  #11  
Old 04-10-2016, 11:39 PM
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FYI

Clarification regarding brake booster part numbers.

1986-1991
Brake Booster R107, R109, W126
300SDL, 350SDL, 300SEL, 420SEL, 560SEL, 500SL*
MB# 0044306530

1980-1985
Brake Booster W126
MB# 0014308430
MB# 0024304430
MB# 0024306830

1976 and 1985
Brake Booster W123
MB# 0024304630
MB# 0024304530
MB# 0024302530

1972–1980
Brake Booster W116
MB# 0014308430
MB# 0024304430
MB# 0024306830

1968–1976
Brake Booster W114 - W115
MB# 0014306630
MB# 0014303630
MB# 0004304830
MB# 0004307530


.
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  #12  
Old 06-18-2018, 11:57 PM
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Post Update 2018

Someone did this to my graymarket 1984 300TD and I don't much like it because the brake pedal i so soft it just feels....'wrong' somehow although the car stops on a dime .
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  #13  
Old 06-19-2018, 11:02 AM
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I didn't read the whole thread, so I don't know if the OP had positive results from this modification. My experience: I put a W116 brake booster in my friends TD. He thought it would be a nice upgrade, but it turned out to be more of a hassle than it was worth. The brakes were no better than before. He even had the booster rebuilt, but still no improvement in ease of braking or anything else. I have always thought that these cars (W123, W126 etc) had excellent brakes, so no need to modify them in any way.
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  #14  
Old 07-12-2018, 02:21 PM
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I have a W126 booster in my 1983 300D, upgraded it and the master cylinder when I upgraded to W126 front brakes. Everything fit well and the car stops great.
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