Amateur Adventures: OM617 Injector Pump replacement. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BigBenz · #1 05-09-2015, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Why are you replacing the Original Fuel Injection Pump?

The throttle rack is completely frozen verified by inspection through the alda cover. After using solvent for 1 week I got it moving but it would not respond to the linkages. After leaving it 1 more week it has frozen in place again. I assume the fuel nozzles that the rack interacts with are somehow causing binding.

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The Timing Locking Pin will hold the Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft in the correct position for installation

It seems stiff enough not to rotate while handling. This tool doesn't guarantee its in the correct position, but only freezes it in the position its at when inserted?

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The timing positon on the crankshaf damper is 15 degrees after top dead center (OT, zero is top dead center on the Crank Shaft Damer).

This is why I want to make an amateur guide. I need locate the crank shaft dampner(not the fly wheel?) And what tool will measure 15° accurately enough?

Are kidney slots another term for the holes that recieve the slide bolts?

Thanks. I'll delve into your thread here next.

GregMN · #2 05-09-2015, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBenz

It seems stiff enough not to rotate while handling. This tool doesn't guarantee its in the correct position, but only freezes it in the position its at when inserted?

This tool DOES guarantee it's in the correct position.
The pump WILL move away from the correct position if not locked in place.
The tool only locks at the CORRECT position, no other position.

OM617YOTA · #3 05-09-2015, 06:28 PM

Replacing an IP is tedious, not difficult. If you're used to turning wrenches on Japanese or American marques, you'll be scratching your head and wondering what those crazy Germans were thinking when they designed this thing.

ROLLGUY · #4 05-09-2015, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

Replacing an IP is tedious, not difficult. If you're used to turning wrenches on Japanese or American marques, you'll be scratching your head and wondering what those crazy Germans were thinking when they designed this thing.

The rear mount is the biggest challenge, but much easier with the oil filter stand removed. Having an IP with the port in the side for the locking tool is much easier than the earlier ones with out it.

OM617YOTA · #5 05-09-2015, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

The rear mount is the biggest challenge, but much easier with the oil filter stand removed. Having an IP with the port in the side for the locking tool is much easier than the earlier ones with out it.

Is it possible to R&R the IP without removing the oil filter stand? I've only been able to adjust timing.

ROLLGUY · #6 05-09-2015, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

Is it possible to R&R the IP without removing the oil filter stand? I've only been able to adjust timing.

Yes, but you might learn some new cuss words in the process. It is hard enough to remove and replace the bolt, let alone the entire bracket. The bracket has to be removed in order to pull the pump. I have not tried to leave the bracket on the pump with just the two bolts removed that hold the bracket to the block. I am pretty sure the pump cannot be removed without the bracket completely out of the way. It is a bit of a job, but the VCV and shutoff can be removed for better access to the bolt if the stand is not removed. Needless to say, with the stand removed, it is a "piece of cake"....Rich

Diesel911 · #7 05-09-2015, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBenz

The throttle rack is completely frozen verified by inspection through the alda cover. After using solvent for 1 week I got it moving but it would not respond to the linkages. After leaving it 1 more week it has frozen in place again. I assume the fuel nozzles that the rack interacts with are somehow causing binding.

It seems stiff enough not to rotate while handling. This tool doesn't guarantee its in the correct position, but only freezes it in the position its at when inserted?

This is why I want to make an amateur guide. I need locate the crank shaft dampner(not the fly wheel?) And what tool will measure 15° accurately enough?

Are kidney slots another term for the holes that recieve the slide bolts?

Thanks. I'll delve into your thread here next.

Not exactly True. When you line the Crank Degrees up properly on the right stroke nothing in there is going to move. The only thing that has the possiblity of moving is the Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft.

The Fuel Injection Pump can be stuck back into the hole anywhere whit in the Kidney Slots and stll be in time if the Camshaft does not rotate. But, if it is not in the middle you don't have room to fine turn the Fuel Injection Pump and you might have to bend your Fuel Injection Hard Lines to get them back on.

Kidney slots are circled in Green on the pic.
If you are not using the Timing Locking Pin the timing is 24 Degrees before top dead center on the Compression Stroke. The timing specs are on the Emission Sticker.

You don't need any Tool. The Degree Marks are on the Crankshaft Damper at the front bottom of the Engine and the Pointer for that is viewed from the left side looking down between the Belts.

Kidney slots are in the green circles. Your replacement Pump will have the corrrect timing marks on it.