Amateur Adventures: OM617 Injector Pump replacement. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BigBenz · #1 05-09-2015, 02:20 PM

If this thread doesn't exist already I would like to create it. A step by step guide for an enthusiastic shade tree mechanic to complete what appears to be the most complicated part replacement on this model.

I will be ordering special tools as needed and documenting every step of this journey.

In my area, there are no mechanics that will touch these cars. The diesel shops won't go near them, and the nearest (150 miles) rags shop has a 2-3 month waiting list and will surely want more than 2x the value of the car for a new part and labor.

I have a pump I sourced from an elderly germen mechanic who picked it from his parts bin and tried to describe what he remembers of the process(linning up the first [#1] injector to the raised position) It has a throttle position sensor, so we assumed it was most compatible with my 02/85 California Turbo model. Not sure if I should include the VIN here.

The part I found is 6170705001

I'll include pictures. If this is the right piece I will start with a complete tear down and cleaning as I wait for my specials tools like the start of delivery spout. The old mechanic said to just rotate the IP while running the engine to get close enough, but I would like to do this right.

Since I have the pump out, if the community has any advice on adjustments to make to squeeze some more power out it could be fun, but I dont want to overcomplicate the job.

The car was my daily driver for the last 3 years, has only 150k on it, and had the valves done every 20k it whole life.

BigBenz · #2 05-09-2015, 02:32 PM

Diesel911 · #3 05-09-2015, 02:49 PM

There should all of the info you need somewhere in the Repair Links
Fast navigation Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links

Why are you replacing the Original Fuel Injection Pump?

If the Fuel Injection Pump you pan to install has the Rack Positon Sensor (used to control the EGR) it will have a 17mm Plug on the Driverside (US Models) in which you can insert a Timing Locking Pin.

The Timing Locking Pin will hold the Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft in the correct position for installation but the timing positon on the crankshaf damper is 15 degrees after top dead center (OT, zero is top dead center on the Crank Shaft Damer).

That means turning the Engine in the direction of normal rotation you need to bring the Piston up on the Compression Stroke and go past TDC to 15 degrees ATDC (after Top Dead Center). They you stick in the Fuel Injection Pump (with the timing locking Pin installed) so that the Studs are somewhat centered in the Kidney Slots on the front of the Fuel Injection Pump.

The last time I removed My Fuel Injection Pump I used the Timing Locking Pin and I did no further timing check on it and it has been running fine for several years. It might be better after you know the Engine will start and run to drip time but I have not botherd to do that.
Although I have drip timed before.

If the Oil Filter Housing to Block Gasket is leaking removing the Oil Filter Housing to change the gasket also makes it easy to remove and install the Fuel Injection Pump

I think I have some instructions on the use of the Fuel Injection Pump locking Timing Pin.
Fuel Injection Pump Removal with the Oil Filter still on 617.952
Fuel Injection Pump Removal with the Oil Filter still on 617.952 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

This is a pic of the Fuel Injection Pump Locking Timing Pin. Pelican sells it and it can be had on eBay for around $37.

ROLLGUY · #4 05-09-2015, 02:50 PM

Might I ask why you are replacing the injection pump? These do not go bad very often, and unless you know for a fact that the one in your car is bad, then I would not put an unknown pump in. It is best to get the replacement pump tested and adjusted before installing it. If YOU pulled it from a known good running engine, then I would say that having it tested is not necessary. The job of replacing an IP is not as easy as it may seem. With a lot of help from this forum, and a good repair manual, it can be done (that's how I did it the first time). However, be prepared for a lot of work, and maybe even having to remove it again because the engine won't run (or drip time correctly). What year is your car? The IP in your photos is definitely for an '85 with the rack position sensor. The RPS being there makes it a little difficult to get the top inside nut on and off. With a magnet on a stick and a long extension, it is possible to do. Others that have experience will chime in I am sure.....Rich

EDIT: I just went back and read that you have an '85

Diesel911 · #5 05-09-2015, 02:56 PM

The ALDA is missing off of the replacement Fuel Injection Pump.

The ALDA is what cuts back on the Fuel when there is no boost from the Turbo Charger.

If you don't care about that someone is going to have to comment on how to remove the ADLA. That would give you max Fuel all of the time reguardless of the boost pressure from the Turbocharger.
That may or may not cuase smoke issue.

Also when I got the new Fuel Injection Pump to Block Gasket I considered it to be rather thin. I used the new Factory Gasket as a template to make another Gasket out of thicker gasket material.

Some People have had that Rack Positon Sensor Leak Oil where it attatches to the Fuel Injection Pump. You might want to change the Gasket or O-ring that is there while the Fuel Injection Pump is removed.

BigBenz · #6 05-09-2015, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Why are you replacing the Original Fuel Injection Pump?

The throttle rack is completely frozen verified by inspection through the alda cover. After using solvent for 1 week I got it moving but it would not respond to the linkages. After leaving it 1 more week it has frozen in place again. I assume the fuel nozzles that the rack interacts with are somehow causing binding.

Quote:

The Timing Locking Pin will hold the Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft in the correct position for installation

It seems stiff enough not to rotate while handling. This tool doesn't guarantee its in the correct position, but only freezes it in the position its at when inserted?

Quote:

The timing positon on the crankshaf damper is 15 degrees after top dead center (OT, zero is top dead center on the Crank Shaft Damer).

This is why I want to make an amateur guide. I need locate the crank shaft dampner(not the fly wheel?) And what tool will measure 15° accurately enough?

Are kidney slots another term for the holes that recieve the slide bolts?

Thanks. I'll delve into your thread here next.

BigBenz · #7 05-09-2015, 03:29 PM

I expect this job to be quite a challenge, if I saw another option other than throwing the car away I would pursue it. Throttle rack is jammed, it happened suddenly with no warning. I have no idea how I could test this IP. The one rags mechanic might be able to who's 300 miles round trip away?

If rebuilding my existing IP to free the rack was an option I could try that, but ive never seen any guides that suggest opening these things up for anything but cleaning and removing the alda bits.

Lucas · #8 05-09-2015, 03:38 PM

Its common place to ship to a known good IP shop.

They are just an IP shop. Nothing else. The equipment to calibrate them and work on them may cost more than your house.

Although there are some masters on here that have built their own.

I hope to be there one day...

BigBenz · #9 05-09-2015, 03:47 PM

Sounds expensive. If I'm shipping in the US mainland it would all be the same price from hawaii. Would it make more sense to send them my original seized IP? Or both? Any idea on how to locate a reputable shop or what kind of costs we are talking about? I can get a whole new donor engine with IP attached and running for under a grand. These cars sell regularly in my area for $2-$4k. It seems the best option maybe to scrap this perfectly good car because of one part

BigBenz · #10 05-09-2015, 04:21 PM

Would it be better to source it from someone reputable? Something like this?

Mercedes OM617 Fuel Injection Pump 1985 CA Models

GregMN · #11 05-09-2015, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBenz

It seems stiff enough not to rotate while handling. This tool doesn't guarantee its in the correct position, but only freezes it in the position its at when inserted?

This tool DOES guarantee it's in the correct position.
The pump WILL move away from the correct position if not locked in place.
The tool only locks at the CORRECT position, no other position.

OM617YOTA · #12 05-09-2015, 06:28 PM

Replacing an IP is tedious, not difficult. If you're used to turning wrenches on Japanese or American marques, you'll be scratching your head and wondering what those crazy Germans were thinking when they designed this thing.

ROLLGUY · #13 05-09-2015, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

Replacing an IP is tedious, not difficult. If you're used to turning wrenches on Japanese or American marques, you'll be scratching your head and wondering what those crazy Germans were thinking when they designed this thing.

The rear mount is the biggest challenge, but much easier with the oil filter stand removed. Having an IP with the port in the side for the locking tool is much easier than the earlier ones with out it.

Diesel911 · #14 05-09-2015, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBenz

The throttle rack is completely frozen verified by inspection through the alda cover. After using solvent for 1 week I got it moving but it would not respond to the linkages. After leaving it 1 more week it has frozen in place again. I assume the fuel nozzles that the rack interacts with are somehow causing binding.

It seems stiff enough not to rotate while handling. This tool doesn't guarantee its in the correct position, but only freezes it in the position its at when inserted?

This is why I want to make an amateur guide. I need locate the crank shaft dampner(not the fly wheel?) And what tool will measure 15° accurately enough?

Are kidney slots another term for the holes that recieve the slide bolts?

Thanks. I'll delve into your thread here next.

Not exactly True. When you line the Crank Degrees up properly on the right stroke nothing in there is going to move. The only thing that has the possiblity of moving is the Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft.

The Fuel Injection Pump can be stuck back into the hole anywhere whit in the Kidney Slots and stll be in time if the Camshaft does not rotate. But, if it is not in the middle you don't have room to fine turn the Fuel Injection Pump and you might have to bend your Fuel Injection Hard Lines to get them back on.

Kidney slots are circled in Green on the pic.
If you are not using the Timing Locking Pin the timing is 24 Degrees before top dead center on the Compression Stroke. The timing specs are on the Emission Sticker.

You don't need any Tool. The Degree Marks are on the Crankshaft Damper at the front bottom of the Engine and the Pointer for that is viewed from the left side looking down between the Belts.

Kidney slots are in the green circles. Your replacement Pump will have the corrrect timing marks on it.

leathermang · #15 05-09-2015, 08:31 PM

There are also aftermarket books...
Haynes fuel injection 1986 to 1994
and Bosch for ' our ' years.... if I can find mine will be more specific....
might find a copy on Ebay....