Unscrewing the hose fitting ends from the oil cooler can strip the aluminum threads off of the oil cooler. On my 84 300D there is a fix for that but it requires cutting off the threaded area of the oil cooler, drilling and tapping it for the repair fitting.

Cohline, some of the members have said you can buy it from Porsche dealers and that it is cheaper there. I don't have personal experience with buying there.

There is no consensus on sealant to use on the oil cooler hose tubing nipples. They do need to be oil/grease free before application of the sealant. More importantly the hoses need to be properly indexed before you tighten the clamps down or the sealant cures.


On an 84 300D the oil cooler hose is: 15mm I.D Oil Pressure Cooler Hose Type 2633.1300

I don't have an offhand memory of what clamps to use so won't comment on that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

A few ebay sellers have the hose in stock.

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

Hmm so it sounds like I should try to do this without taking the metal parts of the lines out due to risk of stripping threads. I don't imagine getting the clamps on will be easy, but I'll give it a try.

There are two Porsche dealerships in Orlando so I suppose it's worth a try calling them. I'll report back on whether the Porsche option works out.

It is your choice.

Keep track which each line goes to.

The bottom end of the lines when you remove the steel crimped collars the hose comes off. After that you can remove the while oil cooler with the lines attached and have more room to work when it is out. Again, that is on my 84 300D.

I used the Oetiker clamps on the oil cooler end. But I was using a nail cutter pliers to do the crimping. When tried to use the Oetiker clamps on the bottom I could not use the nail cutter pliers as there was no room. The real tool has a part to use the side of the jaws to do the crimping. Since I did not have one, I cannot tell for sure if there is room to do that either.

The short story for me is since I could not use the clamps, I used Norma's type of worm gear hose clamps.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hose clamp tool.
In the site the side jaws on the clamp tool allow it to go into a different piston compared to the nail cutter.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/images/L/3295.JPG

Another way to remove the lines with the Oil Cooler as a unit is to go under an remove the oil line bracket. Thin I think it is a 27mm open ends wrench and use it as a counter hold on the oil filter housing fittings. Hold that and remove the Oil Cooler hoses at the oil filter.

I did not do that either. However, I think others have done it. As you pull out the oil cooler from a lot of oil is going to come out of the hoses.

I think some people said you can remove the front grill and the oil cooler and hoses can be pulled out forward. But again, I did not do it that way.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Can you clarify what "properly indexed" means?


Thanks for the tip on the tool. I'm hoping to fit the Oetiker clamps on both sides of both hoses. This is what I ended up ordering:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HJ6LYHP?psc=1&smid=A3TX3Z5Z5OFI4X&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp


On the matter of sealant, I'm leaning toward Loctite 480 as it specifically lists "metal to rubber" as an ideal application. It says it has "high resistance to shock", a higher operating temp range (212F), and is slightly cheaper than the 404.

EDIT: Actually scratch that. Loctite 480 only has a temp range up to 212F. Loctite 404 is worse, only up to 180F. Loctite 402 looks to be a winner, with temp range up to 275F.

I'm thinking I'll make a video about all of this when I go to do the job.

I can't verbally explain the indexing thing. I would be sure the metal parts of the hoses and the metal hose ends hose end up in the same positions as they originally before they are glued and clamped.

I have never used any of the Loctite products mentioned so I cannot comment on them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Properly indexed just means not crimped together randomly like a garden hose.
Let’s say the fittings at the oil cooler end are at 6am (arbitrary)and say you crimped the pipe fittings on the new hose at noon, you wouldn’t be able to reconnect the hoses.

The hose is the hose, but the fittings need to be clocked in the right direction before they’re crimped as they will not rotate after the fact. You’ll need to mark them.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Which sealant did you use? Both of the connections to my oil cooler are at the bottom ('82 240D) and if I can't get enough space to crimp the Oetikers I'm thinking I'll need some sealant + norma clamps to have some peace of mind.

How will the sealant affect changing the hose in the future? I saw you've already had to do it once before and I'm curious how your experience was.

Did you make a video?

I have no idea how to post a video.

What I did was related to my own 84 300D Federal car.

I degrease with brake cleaner the hose barbs on the steel tubing. I put the clamps on the hose, I put the sealant on the regular automotive silicone sealant on the hose nipple and I slide the hose over that. slide the camps down the hose position them and crip the clamps or if worm gear clamps tighten them.

I used no sealant on the fitting end between the cooler and the hose end.

I used the Oetiker clamps on the Oil cooler end of the hose, and I used Normal worm gear clamps on the other end of the hose for the same reason that I did not have the tool to get in there in crimp them. However, there is a tool for crimping from the side.

Give the silicon sealant 24 hours to cure.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I ran a hose loop instead of the cooler for two summers on my '80 240d manual, and ended up deleting the cooler after some mods: 75 degree thermostat, W126 aux. fan with override switch, r4 "scroll" compressor that uses less power. I'm more comfortable with a slightly higher running temp. than the failure-prone cooler & hoses. Only on the 240d manual, though.

I sealed the oil filter housing using ELRING 877870 oil drain plugs, removed the oil thermostat and its spring (note: leave the anti-drainback valve in place).

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1980 240d
1999 SL500

I had to remove the oil filter housing on my 84 300D to change the gasket and it is considerable work.

Also, what works on your 240D might not be good for an engine with turbo charger because it is the oil that cools the turbo charger. And the turbo charged piston heads have cavities that cooling oil sprays up into.

In my cheap oil cooler thread I waited on the real hose to arrive but had to get my car on the road and bought the heaviest duty heater hose I could find at NAPA and used that on with worm gear hose clamps for like week till the real hose came. But I used the car only locally to trips I had to do and zero freeway use.

I don't know what size hose the URO aftermarket hoses is. But if he cut the collars crimped on collars off, he could remove that old hose and measure the outside diameter and find some suitable hose and use double worm gear clams on each hose end till he found something more permeant.

The oil temp can be like 220 F, and the max possible oil presser on the turbo diesel is 110 psi. My own oil pressure maxed out at about 98 psi.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Good lord. You put the silicon sealant on the outside of nipple. When you push the hose on and have on my 84 300D the proper 15mm hoses it has some tightness to it and as you push the hose onto the nipple the silicon gets pushed back away from the nipple opening.

If you don't understand what you are doing you should not be doing that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Why use any sealant? Seems strange to me for rubber hose on a metal nipple, but I'm just an aerospace engineer. Re hose to use, pages earlier I gave PN's which I used. Not fancy special-order German hose, just easily-bought AC hose. Has been fine for ~7 yrs now. For Oeticker ear clamps, I just use nail-puller pliers, though I have an AC crimp tool so I used ferrules on the new cooler hoses.

Whatever hose you use, cut the lower one 1" longer to insure clearing that evil p.s. belt. As the motor mounts sag, it can chainsaw a hole in the oil cooler hose for a bad result. M-B should have designed it longer.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

It is a personal choice. I noticed long ago that silicon sealant glues itself to metal parts if the part is degreased and actually dry. So, when you coat the nipples with silicon sealant and slide the hose over that and calm it is now also glued to the nipple and the hose itself after it is cured. It is an added bonus.

The 15mm ID Choline hose is not special. It is just that there are less places that carry it here in the US. One of our members said Porsch dealers sell it and cut the length you want. Somewhere in my thread is the part number for the 15mm purpose made oil cooler hose.

About a year and 1/2 ago I pulled the cylinder head off my car and never put it back on. Until that point the 15mm hose was fine.

I got one meter of hose from Bellmetric and yes it was ordered on the internet but that is not a special order. The 5/8" GoodYear hose I ordered was also from the internet. Actually, using the 5/8" hose that did not have a lot of tension on the nipples when it slid on was why I used the silicon sealant.

When I found the correct 15mm hose it was an easy switch.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel