Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst. - Page 8 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

eatont9999 · #**106** 07-17-2014, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Once vibration starts, the engine will try to loose anything and everything bolted to it. If any one bolt got loose, it starts a chain reaction and does not stop until the entire compressor and bracket is dragging on the ground. It is very important to periodically inspect and tighten the fasteners on this system. I hate to say it, but if you had to pound in the 1/2" bolt, it will never come out if it breaks again. If you can source another factory (12mm X ?) bolt and all metal lock nut, that would be best. If the plate brace is broken at the bend, I suggest you either get it welded SOON, or remove the belt until you get a replacement. The brace has to be there, and be intact or the same thing will happen again (or worse). The best way to remove the belt (actually relocating it intact) is to rout it around the crank pulley and up to and around the PS pump. You can just zip tie it so it does not rub on anything. When you are ready to use the belt again, just cut the ties and rout the belt back down around the crank pulley and on the compressor.....Rich

I didn't have to hit the bolt very hard to get it in the bracket. It was more along the lines of getting past the misalignment of the bracket and engine because the bolt was not there to keep the two aligned. Once I loosened the bracket, the bolt slid through pretty easily.

I will look into repairing the supporting bracket. I have a co-worker/buddy who does welding on the side. Maybe he can fix it up for me.

remotemark · #**107** 07-25-2014, 09:47 AM

Between this thread and the spring special thread, there have been so many posts I'm not confident I understand what the entire kit consists of and what the upgrades have been. Could you possibly put together a new post which describes the whole thing and explains what, if anything, else is needed to convert to the Sanden compressor with the barrier hose setup?

Sorry to be thick, I was hit in the head with an ax at an early age. And I don't mean a guitar.

ROLLGUY · #**108** 07-25-2014, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by remotemark

Between this thread and the spring special thread, there have been so many posts I'm not confident I understand what the entire kit consists of and what the upgrades have been. Could you possibly put together a new post which describes the whole thing and explains what, if anything, else is needed to convert to the Sanden compressor with the barrier hose setup?

Sorry to be thick, I was hit in the head with an ax at an early age. And I don't mean a guitar.

As far as hoses, my hose kit comes with the 2 hoses connected to the compressor. The only hoses remaining are the 2 that run into the cabin. I have a replacement hose for the low side (larger diameter), and the high side (small blue hose) is made of a completely different material that normally does not need replacing. I will eventually have complete installation instructions published both here and in printed form with each kit. The instructions for modifying the low side hard pipe are here somewhere, but I would have to look for them. PM me for any specific details needed. Thanks, Rich

ROLLGUY · #**109** 08-16-2014, 09:55 PM

I had a couple customers mention that the belt alignment was not quite right on their installation. I recently installed a kit on a friends car, and the misalignment was very noticeable. I have done several perviously without any alignment problems. I decided to make a change to the remaining 11 plates I have in stock, and will change the new batch of plates I have made, moving the compressor forward by 1/4". I added a 1/4" spacer on the 2 compressor mounting tabs, and the adjustment bar tab. I also included longer bolts in the hardware bag. Doing this has made a change to how the bolts are oriented. This photo shows the orientation (pay no attention to the belt being in the wrong groove of the pulley

):

Before, I had the nuts inboard of the compressor ears (facing each other), but now they need to be on the outboard side. The adjustment bar bolt also needs to have the nut on the left side.

Installation tips:
At first, I installed the plate and then mounted the compressor on the plate. I find that now to be the hard way. I now mount the compressor on the plate on the workbench, and then install the plate and compressor as a unit:

Tighten the 2 bolts snug enough so that it takes a bar to rotate the compressor. No further tightening should be required. Start with the compressor as close to the plate as possible for easiest belt installation. Be sure to insert the plate mounting bolt in it's hole before mounting the compressor. It is very difficult to get it in afterward. Also, insert the plate brace bolt in the hole before mounting the compressor as well (unlike the photo that shows an empty hole

). It is best to install the oil cooler line bracket before mounting the compressor/plate:

Another tip: When building the adjustment system, it is best to insert but not fully tighten the bolts so it is easier to install the adjustment bolt sleeve. I used to tighten the "banana" bracket bolts, and then have a hard time getting the adjustment bar and sleeves in between the brackets. Having the banana brackets loose makes it easier to install the rest of the system. Once all the parts are in place, all the bolts can be tightened.....Rich

eatont9999 · #**110** 08-27-2014, 11:35 AM

Aside from the broken bolt and bracket issue I had, I must add that the power lead to the compressor clutch has broken internally. If I bump it or move it, the clutch engages. It seems to stop working randomly and needs to be touched to kick on again. I have determined the break is at or near the wire fastener; leaving little to no room to attach a new wire. Currently, my A/C is inoperable because the clutch does not engage.

ROLLGUY · #**111** 11-18-2014, 08:03 PM

The latest revision to the plate makes it a little different than the last batch (Gen 2.0), and I am calling this revision the Gen 2.2. The identifier is that it is painted silver instead of black (the next 50 kits will have the silver plate). There is only a slight difference than the previous units, and may not be noticeable to most people. The belt alignment problem was solved (moved the compressor mounting tabs 1/4 forward), and the adjustment bolt is further away from the adjustment bar for easier turning of the bolt (a socket will fit without rubbing on the bar). Also the adjustment bar tab is the full 1/2" instead of two 1/4" pieces welded together. I just thought I would let everyone know so you are not surprised when you get a silver plate instead of black!.....Rich

TheDon · #**112** 11-18-2014, 09:50 PM

I wish I had v2.2. The issue with the adjuster bolt is a little annoying but it's not like I have to deal with it daily. Glad you fixed the issue.

OldLinePaul · #**113** 11-18-2014, 11:02 PM

I dig the continuous improvement of this product. I installed Rollguy's Gen 2.0 kit a couple of months ago on my 240D and it turned out well. Fitting the bracket with the new compressor was a breeze, and Rich quickly answered the few questions I had about the installation.

I wound up using a 15360 size belt and could probably go the next size smaller for my application, though I have not had any issues with slippage. The hardest part for me was learning how to properly braze the fitting on the low side line.

ROLLGUY · #**114** 11-19-2014, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldLinePaul

I dig the continuous improvement of this product. I installed Rollguy's Gen 2.0 kit a couple of months ago on my 240D and it turned out well. Fitting the bracket with the new compressor was a breeze, and Rich quickly answered the few questions I had about the installation.

I wound up using a 15360 size belt and could probably go the next size smaller for my application, though I have not had any issues with slippage. The hardest part for me was learning how to properly braze the fitting on the low side line.

Thank you. I believe that there is nothing more needed in the design, so this may be the last revision. I have 49 kits to get through before thinking about changing anything (adding maybe, changing- NO). Yes the 616 takes a different size belt, and until now I did not know what size to use. I normally send the 15375 with the kit, as 99% of the kits I sell are for the turbo. I may order some belts for the 616 once I know the exact size needed......Rich

ROLLGUY · #**115** 11-19-2014, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

I wish I had v2.2. The issue with the adjuster bolt is a little annoying but it's not like I have to deal with it daily. Glad you fixed the issue.

I have installed several of the 2.0 kits, and a open end wrench works just fine to turn the bolt. I decided to make the change on this batch because it was fairly easy to do. However, all these changes mean the bolts have to be oriented differently (5 posts ago).

jab0028 · #**116** 02-19-2015, 03:26 PM

Rich, spring is right around the corner. Any early bird specials this year?

ROLLGUY · #**117** 02-19-2015, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jab0028

Rich, spring is right around the corner. Any early bird specials this year?

Not really. There has not been a price increase on the bracket kit since the Gen 2 came out (a couple years ago), and everything costs more now. I am going to raise the price on July first to $200. for the kit, so I guess that will be my Spring Special= Orders received before July first get the bracket kit for $180. I am also basically out of compressors, so I will not be able to offer them unless I can get another source.....Rich

Veggieguy · #**118** 04-28-2015, 07:29 AM

Rich,

Summer's heat is not too far away here in Texas. I would like to connect with you about buying a kit. What is the best way?

Michael

Paul Robinson · #**119** 04-28-2015, 08:38 AM

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ROLLGUY · #**120** 05-10-2015, 06:43 PM

In welding the last batch of plates, I noticed that a shim was missing on my fixture for the compressor mount tabs. If you are attaching the compressor to the plate before mounting it as a unit on the engine, please verify that there is no space between the compressor alloy ear and the steel mounting tab. You might have gotten a plate that was made without the shim in place, thereby making a space that shouldn't be there. If left that way, tightening the bolts will break the compressor ear. Please check this before using the compressor. It is fairly easy to fix by using two adjustable wrenches on the tabs to bend them slightly apart. There is a tolerance in the Sanden manual (link in my installation guide page 9 "mounting ear deflection"), but is not that much. Sorry that this might have happened to yours, but I want to make sure before it is used and it break an ear off the compressor. I think there is no more than 3 out there that have been sold recently that may be affected. Please let me know. Thanks, Rich