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#31
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My heater controls, are in the exact same condition. You can buy one new still for 75$ problem is removing it....what I am doing, is super gluing it back together, cutting some metal and wiring it to the housing to make a brace for the controls.
You may also want to look at my thread and redo all the foam on the flaps, since you have the box out....and also clean the heater core and evaporator.
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#32
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Be careful. If the euro car did not have AC the main unit in the center and the blower will be different from an ac equipped 240. You need the center section with all the coils etc from a car that came with AC.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#33
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Quote:
I am for sure following your thread cooljjay, and will be refoaming the flaps (great suggestion with the craft foam). What's the consensus on replacing the evaporator entirely at this stage of the game? Seems like something that is a real bear to get to...and here I am. My understanding of the heater cores is they are pretty robust, and most would not preemptively replace.
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission. |
#34
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Have you looked at Dave Morrison`s thread on removing the Dash, AC/Heat unit, Evaporator etc......? This should answer a lot of your questions.
PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the A/C Evaporator Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#35
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Morrison wrote a fantastic wiki on that process for sure, was the BEST of all the dash removal instructions I've found. And yeah, as I get to splitting the heater box and so on, will come in very helpful too.
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission. |
#36
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Aside from finding the plastic bracket, what can anyone tell me about moving the manual system to the US spec car. I know I'll be moving the entire heater box and fan box.
Specifically, how do you wire in the manual fan control switch? And deleting all the wiring for the vacuum switches etc. how is that best executed? Thanks!
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission. |
#37
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![]() All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) Several parts & project cars LOTS of parts for sale! For Sale: Diesel EGR Delete/Block-off Plate Kit 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#38
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So...it's getting more ugly each day, both cars are...
The Euro brown car wire labeling project: ![]() The US white car dash removal project: ![]() The two hidden screws holding the center console to the dash, accessed through a switch hole, this stumped me for a bit, as it wasn't mentioned in the wiki I was using to remove the dash: ![]() The US car with no dash: :-( ![]() I guess this is "progress".
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission. |
#39
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Well that's looks like fun.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#40
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It looks better when everything is out of the car
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#41
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Step by step
Today, I got all the wiring labeled and pulled away from the heater box of the US spec car. Tomorrow I'll tackle getting the heater/evaporator box out. Then I can split both boxes, and see what the condition of the evaporator and heater cores are. Stay tuned.
![]() Help identifying these boxes please? What are they, and can I get rid of them? ![]()
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission. |
#42
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The left box above the Blower Motor is the "Electronic Unit for Temperature Control" the right box is "Electronic Control Unit for Blower Speed Control".
I assume they can be eliminated if changing to the manual system. The Temp control on the manual is cranking on the 2 water Knobs for heat. The Blower speed will be turning the Blower Knob to the desired speed. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#43
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Replace the center pods right now... with the best one you can buy...
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#44
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Sorry? The center pods?
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission. |
#45
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Quote:
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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission. |
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