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  #61  
Old 06-13-2014, 08:05 PM
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Diesel way of Life
 
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Location: Cleveland, NY
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Back to Joe's thread.. Go debate the Uro stuff somewhere else.
Is it even trying, with any puffs of smoke out the back? Does it act like it's catching on any cylinder? An unorthodox method might be to remove an injector, swivel the hard line around to where the injector is facing into a can or something, crank it and see if you get a spray out of it. You'll need another crush washer if you do this, but it's worth a shot. Unless you have a pop tester. You can get it going Joe..

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  #62  
Old 06-13-2014, 08:18 PM
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No smoke which I find odd and it doesn't sound like it wants to kick over.
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  #63  
Old 06-13-2014, 10:34 PM
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Fix the primer pump and go from there....there is a easy way to fix the primer until you get a new one. Take a condom and stretch over the old primer, and then crack the hard lines....once you get fuel showing up....start the cranking...
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  #64  
Old 06-13-2014, 11:54 PM
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Does the condom have to be ribbed for her pleasure or ultra thin? Got a part #?

I'm going order a new one along with some other parts. I could have sworn I had a good used one in my parts bin. I also could have swapped the one from my 300D that was sitting next to it....but I was lazy.

I do wonder if the injectors need to be cleaned.
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  #65  
Old 06-14-2014, 03:16 AM
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I am going to say, it would prefer the watermelon flavor one and yes it must be a magnum
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  #66  
Old 06-20-2014, 03:35 PM
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Bought a new primer pump, 3mm fuel lines, injector heat shields, marvel myster oil, and a bottle of diesel purge.

I am going to pull the hard lines off and then remove the injectors and put 1/4 cup of MMO in each cylinder and let them soak for a few days and see if that will improve the car. I bet the rings are stuck since its been sitting for 20 years, hope trying to start it a few times didn't damage anything.

wish me luck!

injectors pulled and MMO put into the cylinders, All but #4 sucked it down. #4 took about 5 minutes to drain into the cylinder. I hope it works.

Last edited by TheDon; 06-20-2014 at 05:03 PM.
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  #67  
Old 06-20-2014, 11:30 PM
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You should have the air filter off and a large wad of rag at the ready when you're doing this, that engine may eventually get enough compression in a couple cylinders to fire off and when it does if the rings are stuck it can very easily and quickly start dieseling on the crankcase oil and run away on you!

I had a similar situation and the only way to stop it is to cut off the air supply, the engine I was fooling with could be throttled using a large wad of rag restricting the air intake.
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  #68  
Old 06-21-2014, 06:24 AM
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I was going to ask if you had done a compression test.
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  #69  
Old 06-23-2014, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImBroke View Post
I was going to ask if you had done a compression test.
I don't think I still have my harbor freight compression tester, I will look around for it. If I do I can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OM603 View Post
You should have the air filter off and a large wad of rag at the ready when you're doing this, that engine may eventually get enough compression in a couple cylinders to fire off and when it does if the rings are stuck it can very easily and quickly start dieseling on the crankcase oil and run away on you!

I had a similar situation and the only way to stop it is to cut off the air supply, the engine I was fooling with could be throttled using a large wad of rag restricting the air intake.
I was prepared for a runaway. I had the air cleaner assembly removed and a section of 2x6 ready to go to block the intake.

I really need to lube the throttle linkages. They are very stiff, even after loosening them up with some PB Blaster


When I get home from work today I am going to drain off some of the oil since its got a bit more in it now thanks to the MMO. Toss the injectors back in with new heat shields(whats the torque value), and try again. I need to double check that I can use my MINI to jump the car should I kill the battery or run it down.
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  #70  
Old 06-23-2014, 04:14 PM
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The mini should be able to recharge the battery is bursts if it gets low
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  #71  
Old 06-23-2014, 04:33 PM
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FYI. I like my york. I've had this in my ebay watch list for years for the day something goes wrong with the original and have not needed it yet.

Forget about running anything but r12 with it tho.

Sounds like you've got a way to go before you get to AC restoration.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sanden-Compressor-Mounting-Bracket-Converts-York-Style-Compressor-to-Sanden-/281094880295?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41728f7c27&vxp=mtr#ht_804wt_1153
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  #72  
Old 06-24-2014, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
FYI. I like my york. I've had this in my ebay watch list for years for the day something goes wrong with the original and have not needed it yet.

Forget about running anything but r12 with it tho.

Sounds like you've got a way to go before you get to AC restoration.



Sanden Compressor Mounting Bracket Converts York Style Compressor to Sanden | eBay
I have a similar bracket (welded steel, not cast) for $40 + shipping if you decide to ditch the York......Rich
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  #73  
Old 06-26-2014, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
I have a similar bracket (welded steel, not cast) for $40 + shipping if you decide to ditch the York......Rich
What about hoses? are you making those for the york conversions now?
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  #74  
Old 06-27-2014, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
What about hoses? are you making those for the york conversions now?
Yes I can make the hoses, I just need to have photos and lengths. I have a friend with a 280E that I could measure if needed....Rich
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  #75  
Old 06-27-2014, 10:38 AM
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I will keep that in mind once the time comes to get the AC working in the 240D. I bet a sanden wouldn't zap as much power from the engine as the york. Plus I could do a proper dual parallel flow condenser setup and get it to snow inside the car.

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