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  #1  
Old 06-11-2003, 11:08 PM
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190e 2.6L Pictures of my pistons and cylinderhead before a valve job.(links)

The car is a 93 190e 2.6L. I pulled the head off for a valve job and fix my oil consumption problem. Cylinder # 3 has fouled the spark plug almost every 500 miles with a lot of carbon oily build up. I will have more pictures after the head is back on the car this weekend.
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1993 190E 2.6
Advanced Diesel Systems Test and Research Engineer

Last edited by Meza; 06-12-2003 at 02:04 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-11-2003, 11:13 PM
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Please comment..

What do you guys think happened in cylinder #3. Look at the valve too.
Meza
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1993 190E 2.6
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Last edited by Meza; 06-12-2003 at 01:48 AM.
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  #3  
Old 06-12-2003, 01:58 AM
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I have managed to add links as the pictures did not load. please take a look and email me with any questions/comments.
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1993 190E 2.6
Advanced Diesel Systems Test and Research Engineer
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  #4  
Old 06-12-2003, 04:21 AM
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All I get is a "sorry can't find that page" message.
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  #5  
Old 06-12-2003, 05:46 AM
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Just looks like burning oil to me. Check for valve giude wear and the valve stem oil seals.
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  #6  
Old 06-12-2003, 07:11 AM
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Like Neil said - Just a head rebuild should resolve all that. Try to clean the tops of the pistons before putting everything back together if you can.
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Old 06-12-2003, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by engatwork
Like Neil said - Just a head rebuild should resolve all that. Try to clean the tops of the pistons before putting everything back together if you can.
Most recent pics show REALLY clean pistons, cylinder walls, and resurfaced block!
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  #8  
Old 06-12-2003, 01:28 PM
JetForeman
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What kind of oil and fuel did you run in that engine Meza? This is not to start another oil thread, just to satisfy my curiousity....
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  #9  
Old 06-12-2003, 01:45 PM
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HOW DID YOU CLEAN THE PISTONS???? THEY LOOK GREAT!!!
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  #10  
Old 06-12-2003, 02:04 PM
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I REALLY hope you did NOT use a scotch brite wheel or other gasket removing wheel on a drill to do all this cleaning! The grit from that operation will wear out the motor so fast that you'll be taking it apart again before fall!

Did you do a leak down or compression test before disassembly? If you did, then you know if the problem was ring or valve related. I fully expect that this much oil in the chamber has to come from the piston/cylinder, not the valve guides on that hole.

Unless you KNOW that the problem was valve guide related, you really should pull the piston from that hole, and if you can feel a ridge, carefully remove the ridge with a ridge reamer before pushing out the piston.

If you DID clean everything with a gasket cleaning wheel, you will have to figure a way to thoroughly flush the grit, preferably before starting the engine, and I don't mean simply relying on an oil drain.

Best of luck,
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  #11  
Old 06-12-2003, 08:53 PM
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The cylinderhead was picked up from the machine shop today. I will have pictures as soon as I take them. The shop said that cylinder# 3 valve guides were fine and all the seal are still holding fine. His statement worried me. I did not do a leak down test or a compression test before disassembly which is a mistake. I am thinking about doing a leak down test after I put the head (Is that possible without causing any damage?)If it is the piston on cylinder #3, I will need some help on what to do or may just endup selling the car. I have pulled several BMW cylinderheads and never seen this condition. The car builds up pressure quick when I take off and the engine was smooth before disassembly. The top of the block was carfully cleaned with a blade followed by a scotch brite on a rotating wheel. However, the wheel was dipped in oil and each piston was set at TDC. I used electric contact cleaner spraying around the ring area then suck it with a shop vacuum and whipe it with a shop towel. When the piston is lowered, I can see a ring of dirt. I wipe again and again. This is how I got them polished. Any comments would be welcome and appreciated. I will have more updates as soon as more work is done.
Question: How hard is it to only remove piston #3 to put new rings and do I have to do the whole block?
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1993 190E 2.6
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  #12  
Old 06-12-2003, 09:36 PM
Jackd
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The cleaning job you have done surely looks good, but I would not even try to start this engine if it was mine. Even if everything looks nice and shinny, there are all kind of residus on the lower part of the cylinder wall , side of pistons, rings and oil pan. You have also introduced a lot of debrits in the oil and water passages.
At this point, you have 2 solutions:
1) take the engine out, dismentle, clean or replace worn parts.
2) re-assemble everything without doing further work on it and sell the car to a non-friend.
JackD
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  #13  
Old 06-12-2003, 10:00 PM
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JackD,
I got two cans of electric part cleaners and sprayed well the area around the piston rings and it was pretty clean using a shop vacuum at the same time. I re-oil the cylinder wall and lower it slowly, wipe and clean again. I even attached a straw to the tip of my shop vacuum nozzle and went around that area several times. I did this over and over and it is pretty clean. I taped all the water and oil holes before I did the cleaning. Also, don't you think all that carbon on top of the cylinder is abrasive? I work in the diesel fuel industry (test engineer) and I test diesel fuel injectors with abraisive material like Aluminum oxide (Alumina), lapping compound, and Arizona dust. I know what kind of damage they could do. Carbon is a solid and it is an abraisive too. I have done this job on BMW engines 3 times and haven't had any problems. I hope I am right and everything will be ok.
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1993 190E 2.6
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  #14  
Old 06-12-2003, 10:08 PM
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Cylinder bore condition

I have looked at my cylinder bore and I can clearly see the cross-hatch pattern equally on all cylinders. I raised every piston to TDC and applied a side load with my hand in different directions to see if the piston would move even slightly, however, I couldn't detect any movement. By the way, the car has 204K miles.
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1993 190E 2.6
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  #15  
Old 06-12-2003, 10:16 PM
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Type of oil used

In an answer to JetForeman question, I have used Castrol GTX and Mobil 1 10W30, 10W40, and 20W50 depending on the season. I got the car with 136 miles and now it has 204 miles. It had this oil consumption problem since I got it. It increased from 1quart/1000 miles to about 1quart/400 miles. Cylinder # 3 used to foul the spark plug every like 3-4 miles. I still have all the spark plugs that I pulled out and will take pictures of all and post. The electrode in one of them was bent possibly due to a worn valve guide.
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