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  #31  
Old 07-15-2003, 04:50 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Los Angeles
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After pulling fan clutch, wipe down all the grease from the front.

On each end of the brass plate there are tabs that have been bent to secure the plate. You will need to bend the tab furtherst from the pin and boot.

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  #32  
Old 07-15-2003, 04:57 PM
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Once you have bent the brass tab, slide plate out.






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  #33  
Old 07-15-2003, 09:05 PM
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Remove boot and brass pin. Don't lose the pin!. Also, from the pictures you can see that I left the original RTV (white glue) This will help keep the brass plate in place with you refit everything.



Empty silicon in clean cup draw about 2-3cc at a time with syringe.
Cover pin hole with tip of syringe to prevent silicone oil from coming out of sides.



The stuff that you see me putting in the clutch is not silicon oil. I experimented with A/C oil, not the same and does not work.

You will need to heat up the clutch and spin it to get the silicon oil to the sides and bring air pockets out of the pin hole. I suggest doing this after every 5cc of silicon oil.

Each bottle of Toyota silicon oil is 18cc. I used almost both bottles. I might have still had some A/C oil in my clutch.

You can also you the syringe to suck air out from time to time. Try not to waste the silicon gel. This process might take 2 hours. Be patient, have a beer or 10.

When no more silicon oil will go in, replace pin, boot and brass plate. Be CAREFUL when you bend tab back in place. Use something to brace the plate so that it dosen't bend. Add a few drops of RTV to the ends and let dry for about 20min.



Try it out, let us know.
Good luck,
Stevo
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  #34  
Old 07-15-2003, 09:08 PM
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Niko320

I forgot to add, Keep the fan blade on, this will help rotate the clutch. The pictures are of Sundays experiment. On Monday I got the correct stuff and had the fan blades attached.

Stevo
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  #35  
Old 07-16-2003, 02:34 AM
NikoE320
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Quote:
Looks like a bad fan clutch. I only fixed mine yesterday, drove around town with A/C on and temp stayed around 98c. Much better than 110c! With A/C off 85c - 95c.
Wow, that's the kind of #'s I'm looking for to have confidence again! I am going to order a new one per your suggestion after I call around, and let you know the results soon as I get the work done. Thx a million!
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  #36  
Old 07-18-2003, 07:44 PM
NikoE320
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So I ordered a fan clutch for $125 + $8 shipping (Behr) and should be here mid next week. I'll get it put in and switch to a 50/50 mix of the mercedes coolant and see how it goes. I hope this resolves my issues.
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  #37  
Old 07-24-2003, 08:20 PM
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Niko,
Did you get the clutch yet?

Stevo
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  #38  
Old 07-25-2003, 05:57 PM
NikoE320
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Ok, just got back from having it installed and having the mercedes coolant installed with 50/50 mixture.

Car still appears to run hot. Today was 69F and I was in the drive through line with the A/C off. The needle was a hair above the 100F line (so maybe 105F ?). I turned the AC on and it started to climb, so I turned it off.

I am frustrated why the car wants to just run so hot all of a sudden. When I turn the car off, the fan stops spinning immediately, so at least I know that part has been corrected, but spending the $$ didn't fix my problem. I've spent hundreds of dollars now on this pain in the ass problem and I don't know what else is left to do. New coolant for the 2nd time, new clutch, 2 new thermostats, verified both high and low fans work, relatively new upper radiator hose, verified radiator get's burning hot, etc. etc.

help?
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  #39  
Old 07-25-2003, 08:10 PM
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I didn't read all of the previous posts, but I just read the list of items that you replaced.

Did you try replacing the radiator?
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2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
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  #40  
Old 07-26-2003, 12:43 AM
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I apologize if this has already been mentioned but the radiator could be stopped up one of two ways.

First the core itself could be stopped up. If this is the case one section of the radiator will be much cooler than the rest. This will be the section that is stopped up. You can do this by removing the fan and feeling the radiator or use the non-burning of the skin method with an infra-red temp sensor. Keep in mind that if the radiator is plugged in the area of the fan clutch the clutch will NEVER engage because it has cool air blowing across it. This sounds like your problem. Realistically you can remove the fan and the cooling system should still function properly. Meaning that if you are sitting in traffic and the engine temp climbs once you begin to move again the air alone passing through the radiator should begin to lower the temperature. If the temp remains the same or climbs than you have a fluid or air flow problem which brings me to the second possibility- air flow.

If the fins on the A/C condensor or radiator are clogged with debris (bugs, dirt, etc) then the inadequate air flow will cause the same problem. These must be cleaned!

And a tip: Next time it overheats while driving, turn the heat on with max blower. After all the heater core is a small radiator.

Hope this helps!
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  #41  
Old 07-26-2003, 03:14 PM
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Niko,

I'm sorry to hear the fan clutch didn't fix the problem!(( It looks like we are in the same boat and sinking. Not only do I have to change to fan clutch, but most likely the radiator too!!. That really is the only thing left....

I can't recall, but you DID check the cooling system pressure?? Right? (AutoZone rental=$75)

My fan clutch rehab technique should only be used as a temporary fix.
I'm also using the "JimF" CTS sensor mod. So my aux fans have been kicking in around 98c to cool down the car.
I continued to suspect to fan clutch, due to a post stating that the fan clutch will spin at higher RMP's @ idle when the temp of the clutch hits 90c to draw in more air through the radiator. I haven't been able to clarify this yet.
COULD someone tell me if I'm WRONG???

I have a price of $159=tax, BEHR Radiator, local pick up.

Let me know if your interested, I personally won't be able to throw any more cash into my Benz for another 3weeks, just spent a little under a $1000 an various items.

I feel like an ass, got you all excited about the clutch and it didn't work
Stevo
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  #42  
Old 07-27-2003, 05:51 PM
NikoE320
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madstevo - don't feel like an ass, there is no guarentees with this kind of stuff. My wife is on me to stop wasting money on the car because I'm selling it. I've had 2 shops look at the car and they both said it run's fine, so of course I'm just being anal and would like the car to be cooling 100% to the new buyer. That's the main reason why I'm going through all this.

madstevo, tkamiya - Are you both talking about the same thing? If so, I will say itright now that at this point I need specific instructions on how to test this stuff. Let me know what I got to do.

suginami, chowpit - nope, I have not replaced it nor do I plan on it after spending all this money. Again, the car is for sale so I'm losing lots of money that I'm putting into the car since I won't get any out of it, especially doing a new radiator plus labor.

ahh, the grief continues.....
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  #43  
Old 07-27-2003, 09:28 PM
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tkamiya and I are talking about the same thing.
You should be able to rent the pressure tester, if you can't, don't bother at this point, just sell..
All you need to do is deposit $75+tax ($81) with your local AutoZone and they'll let you borrow the Coolant Pressure Tester.
It comes in a black plastic case. Its not the same as the cheapo coolant tester.

Its really easy to use. Remove the radiator cap and twist on the tester. It has a manual pump on the other end. Pump, until the gauge reads 20psi. (check you manual) w124's should be around 20psi. It should stay at 20, mine drop to 19, probably because I didn't want to over pressurize the system. I didn't want to even push it to 21psi just to see. At this point look for leaks in the cooling system.
LOOK UNDER the car!! I found coolant driping from under my car, next to the transmission. Jacked the car up, secured it and went under. Followed the leak back to the inlet at the firewall, next to the fuse box area. Just a loose clamp, wew, also found my top radiator hose clamp to be loose to, my mistake. (over cautous of cracking the plastic)
He held at 19-20psi for more than 15min. Thats longer than you really need to determine whats wrong. The manual that comes with the Pressure Tester will also help you determine other issues like Head gasket failure.

I am also being really anal about the temp issue, but I also want to be safe on long trips to Vegas with the A/C on.

Well try it out, or just sell it.
Hope your getting another Mercedes??
Stevo
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  #44  
Old 07-30-2003, 02:45 AM
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Found some info

Niko,

Take a look at this post. Interesting reading.

Persistent high temps in 1994 E420

Stevo
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Nov2005 UPDATE: 205k RUNNING BULL on vacation...
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  #45  
Old 09-20-2003, 01:36 AM
NikoE320
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Good reading, I posted there and will post the same question here to help me move forward with this:

since I'm still having problems I'd like to verify if this picture I've attached is the resistor you and benzmac have been referring too. A coil in the middle of this? At what points do I measure the resistance, and what values am I looking for when the car is off? If this resistor is bad, would that cause my cooling problems?
thx...
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'95 E320 operating temperature-dcp_2575.jpg  
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