The Sleeper Part Deux - Page 8 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #**106** 07-16-2013, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

Just fired the ol' girl up. I do see bubbles - foam in the sight glass. I just let it run for a few seconds. Is that bad?

Assuming the R-12 is close or OK, will I hurt anything until I add another 4 oz of oil ? I am hoping VSTECH has the recovery equipment and I will drive to his house this week for a re-do of the oil and R-12.

Bubbles mean that the refrigerant is low.

greazzer · #**107** 07-16-2013, 07:49 PM

Assuming nothing goes wrong between now and tomorrow around the same time, I am having VSTECH do a total re-do on the oil and R-12 charge. Just to make sure ! Well worth the time and expense. I love AC ! Also, picking up a set of injectors for someone who has been patient.

jay_bob · #**108** 07-17-2013, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

Thanks Jay.

Quick question to the forum.

Since A/C is new to me in this car ...

The dial has at one end "MAX" and "O" at the other. If I do not put the dial at MAX, then the crunchy, clanging, rattling sound does not sound so bad. BUT, once I put it on MAX, the noise goes crazy ... truly a squirl cage ... LOL.

What is that ?

Also, I am guessing right now that I have about 22 oz's of R-12 in my system and about 4 oz's of oil. Maybe a little more. When I drained my Sanden, I am thinking about 4 oz's came out. I kept the oil so I could measure it.

Will I hurt anything temporarily ??????????

The 240D has a manual climate control.

There are 7 devices in total that operate the system.

From the top:
The lever on the dash is used in the winter, it allows fresh outside air through the center vents while maintaining heat at the floor. In summer mode the lever should be placed whichever way allows flow out the center.

The wheel on the upper control panel is the thermostatic control for the compressor. It has a sensor on the evaporator and cycles the compressor on and off, keeping the evaporator above freezing. The wheel setting allows the duty cycle of the compressor to be altered, which provides a way to set the temperature of the delivered air. Sending this wheel all the way to MAX closes a contact point on the wheel, which actuates a vacuum valve. This valve operates the pod that closes the recirculation flap behind the dash and gives you "max a/c".

The two levers on the control panel send the air either to the defrost, the floor, or the console vents. Purely mechanical action on the air flaps.

The two outer dials are cable actuated valves to the heater core. 240D has dual zone heat, very fancy! These dials do not do anything with air flow only water flow.

The center dial is a combination electrical and mechanical knob. The mechanical part (turning the knob from 6:00 to 9:00) opens an outside air flap. With the dial at 6:00 all outside air is shut off. At 9:00, 10:30, and 12:00, there are three sets of contacts which jump out sections of the blower resistor. At 9:00 the entire resistor is in series with the blower. At 10:30 half of the resistor and at 12:00 the entire resistor is jumped out.

greazzer · #**109** 07-22-2013, 11:11 AM

Thanks to VSTECH and JayBob's Info !

VSTECH did his A/C magic. He evacuated the system, did another purge, and re-charged it.

I am thinking the expansion valve might be bad since the high and low pressure numbers are off per VSTECH. VSTECH also installed a big W126 condensor fan and it's running as soon as I turn the key. Need to figure out the relay stuff now, but it's OK in the short term.

While driving home yesterday at 3-4PM, it was about 92F and super humid and muggy and the temp gauge was a rock solid 40F, and that's stopping in traffic for about 20 minutes on I-77 because of a bad wreck on the way home.

This AM, it's about 78, and super humid and muggy and the gauge dipped below 40F a few times, but it seems content on being locked in at 40F. I am very happy with that.

As for an expansion valve, do they sell a R-12 EV? OR, are they all the same?

Thanks again ... nice and chilly inside.

vstech · #**110** 07-22-2013, 11:20 AM

yeah, the car looks good, pressures were 60 and 160, VERY ODD to me, I only got about 2 lbs into the system, he had removed the belt driven fan, and ONLY had the stock 123 aux fan for cooling, and it only came on after the system got up to temp... lower 1/3 of the condenser was not getting any air, so I pulled that fan, and installed the 16" fan from my 85 SD... fortunately, he has a PF condenser, and it's only held in with zip ties, so moving it to make room for the bigger fan was no challenge.
the sight glass was clear, to SLIGHT bubbles drifting through. good return superheat of course, the TXV is working, but I think it's stuck open, as the pressures were too high on the suction... I'm happy with it's performance now, so I'm leaving it as is.
glad it's cooling well... I'm SURE it's cooling better than it was with that little aux fan only running on temp!!!

DeliveryValve · #**111** 07-22-2013, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

....

As for an expansion valve, do they sell a R-12 EV? OR, are they all the same?

....

They are not the same, but I have used R134a expansion valves in R12 and it works fine. My understanding is it works the same at the low pressures, but on the high side there is a slight difference but doesn't affect performance much.

.

greazzer · #**112** 07-22-2013, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

yeah, the car looks good, pressures were 60 and 160, VERY ODD to me, I only got about 2 lbs into the system, he had removed the belt driven fan, and ONLY had the stock 123 aux fan for cooling, and it only came on after the system got up to temp... lower 1/3 of the condenser was not getting any air, so I pulled that fan, and installed the 16" fan from my 85 SD... fortunately, he has a PF condenser, and it's only held in with zip ties, so moving it to make room for the bigger fan was no challenge.
the sight glass was clear, to SLIGHT bubbles drifting through. good return superheat of course, the TXV is working, but I think it's stuck open, as the pressures were too high on the suction... I'm happy with it's performance now, so I'm leaving it as is.
glad it's cooling well... I'm SURE it's cooling better than it was with that little aux fan only running on temp!!!

Don't make fun of my little aux fan ... LOL.

Driving around like royalty now ... nice and cool.

Thanks again VSTECH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Simpler=Better · #**113** 07-22-2013, 11:59 AM

Greazzer, get a cheap eb*y fan on there already you're gonna cook that engine. $60 will get you a fan, relays, and wire

greazzer · #**114** 07-22-2013, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

Greazzer, get a cheap eb*y fan on there already you're gonna cook that engine

Cook my engine ... LOL. That engine without a fan but with my Be Cool radiator doesnt hit 80C, even if I let it sit and idle forever. However, I do in fact have an electric fan. I am waiting for its install once I install my electric water pump. I am working on one last pice for the EWP. Then, I can get rid of those zip ties too ... I hate the long term use of zip ties ... nice for the mock-up, but that's it.

Simpler=Better · #**115** 07-22-2013, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

Cook my engine ... LOL. That engine without a fan but with my Be Cool radiator doesnt hit 80C, even if I let it sit and idle forever. However, I do in fact have an electric fan. I am waiting for its install once I install my electric water pump. I am working on one last pice for the EWP. Then, I can get rid of those zip ties too ... I hate the long term use of zip ties ... nice for the mock-up, but that's it.

80% of my motorcycle is comprised of zip ties with no problems for 4 years now

greazzer · #**116** 07-22-2013, 12:21 PM

Yes, zip ties are built for the long haul ... but when you got a 77HP diesel monster at your disposal, no zip ties will do ... LOL

vstech · #**117** 07-22-2013, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

Greazzer, get a cheap eb*y fan on there already you're gonna cook that engine. $60 will get you a fan, relays, and wire

you don't understand... he has a HUGE 100% aluminum radiator in there... it's amazing. that along with the 126 pusher fan up front, and I doubt he has ANY cooling issues on his euro N/A motor...

greazzer · #**118** 08-10-2013, 08:44 PM

I got my A/C re-done. That is, blew a line which was slightly knicked while working on it with VSTECH. It lasted about a week, then poof. Good thing is that I got R-12 and a R-12 port installed vs. the R-134. I will get some pictures up shortly. I went about a week without A/C and I cannot imagine how I made it without it to begin with. The A/C was out to kick my butt. From stripping out the bolts while swapping out the head, helicolis, and now a busted line. However, a little elbow grease and determination, and she's spitting out ice cubes.

Today, it was 95F and 55 percent humidity. It was brutal. Nice things about R-12 and the Sanden 508SD --- I was kicking it out at 38F no matter what, did not matter if i was sitting in traffic or interstate. I love it !

I figured I would knock out my driver's front seat during the weekend. Here are some pictures. I will post some more. The whole seat is rebuilt. It has a passenger seat box which was barely used from what I can tell. Instead of the pool noodle trick, I canabalize another seat and get an extra spring. Makes all the difference in the world. I experimented with brush vs. spray gun. Spray gun is the way to go.

I should have the back part and head rest done tomorrow and assembled and installed by early PM. Just screwed around with the bottom part for about a half an hour starting at 7PM and I am soaked.

Parasol Dye from Canada. High quality dye, a little pricey, but worth it. Hope it darkens just a hair.