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  #1  
Old 11-04-2002, 04:31 PM
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Unhappy Tie-Rod from HELL…Desperation setting in…HELP!

I cannot get a tie-rod end out, no matter what I do! A big part of the problem is that it's the one on the arm coming off the steering box, so I don’t want to beat on it with a sledgehammer. I’ve tried tie-rod separators, heat, penetrating lube, some pressure with a pickle fork in conjunction with the pressure exerted by the separator, & some (light) hammering on the sides of the steering arm socket while pressing with the separator, all to no avail.

This thing is so stubborn that when I used a scissor-action separator it snapped the pivot pin! I then used the type of separator that uses a threaded rod to exert pressure straight down on the end of the threaded shaft that comes through the steering arm – I ended up putting so much pressure on it that the end of the tie-rod started to mushroom & distort the steel!

Any ideas on what else I can do to get this thing apart?

Thanks in advance for everyones’ help on this!

Sincerely,
RTH

Last edited by RunningTooHot; 11-04-2002 at 04:45 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-04-2002, 05:01 PM
LarryBible
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The shaft of the ball stud is tapered in a tapered hole. You don't hit the shaft with a force to drive it straight out. You hit on the end of the Pitman Arm so as to put pressure on the tapered hole to pop it out. You know, the banana principle. If you cut the end off the banana and squeeze it hard, the banana will push out.

I have removed a number of tie rod ends this way. I have a pickle fork, but I expect that for every one that I've removed with the pickle fork, I have removed nine with a hammer while the pickle fork was lying undisturbed in my tool box.

You will do less damage to the steering box by striking the end of the Pitman arm with a hammer than you will with heat IMHO.

In most cases, one well placed blow with about a 3 pound ball peen hammer on the end of the arm in which the tie rod end is inserted and that thing will shoot out like it was coming out of the barrel of a gun. In fact make sure no other limbs are in its path, because it will hurt when it comes out.

Good luck,
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  #3  
Old 11-04-2002, 05:54 PM
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Larry,

Thank you for the helpful input. I used the method that you describe on the others; it’s just this particular one that is giving me fits. I’ve already hit it a few times, but I’m apprehensive to really bash it hard in deference to the well-being of the steering box.

If no other alternative arises, is it your opinion that I can clobber it really hard without damaging the steering box?

Thanks Again!
RTH
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  #4  
Old 11-04-2002, 08:01 PM
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The coaxial puller should work. Leave the nut on and loosened enough to sit at the end of the threads. With the puller cranked down on the joint, tap the side of the pitman arm with the hammer.

Steve
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  #5  
Old 11-04-2002, 08:12 PM
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LarryBible is right .... every time I have had to remove one, I seem to run into the same problem.

I remember using the pounding technique. Just about the time I start thinking of some real severe method, I try a couple more blows with the hammer, and it falls out.

Haasman
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  #6  
Old 11-04-2002, 08:25 PM
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I agree with the hammer technique. If you have one, an air chisel would be an effective substitute for the ball peen hammer.
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  #7  
Old 11-05-2002, 10:22 AM
moedip
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Run into this one all the time on VW's. This system has never failed me. Remove the nut on the bottom of the tie rod. Take a small shop hydraulic jack ($25 Wal Mart Wonder) and jack up the cradle of the jack to the bottom of the tie rod and jack the bottom of the tie rod up so there is a fair amount of tension on the bottom of the tie rod . Then simply hit the outside side of the pittman arm with a 3 lb hammer squarely. with the pressure of the jack on the bottom of the tie rod, within 1-4 blows of the hammer - it will pop out. Have never had it fail.
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  #8  
Old 11-05-2002, 10:34 AM
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I had a similar situation on the other side. I ended up removing the idler arm and using a pickle fork with the idler arm, tie-rod assembly sitting on the garage floor. Perhap you can remove the Pittman arm from the steering box. (I've never done this. Don't know what is involved.)
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  #9  
Old 11-05-2002, 11:44 PM
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Thanks for all the helpful advice everyone. I finally got it off tonight using a combination of sheer maniacal brute force with a 5 pound sledgehammer, mild heating with a propane torch, & PB Blaster. I just hope that this pounding doesn’t cause any damage to the steering box.

RTH
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  #10  
Old 11-06-2002, 08:05 AM
LarryBible
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I really doubt that you caused any problem with the steering box. I would be much more concerned about that if I were putting a force on the Pitman arm that was "levering" the arm against the steering box output shaft, than putting a force perpendicular to the shaft like we're talking about.

Good job,
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  #11  
Old 11-06-2002, 08:35 AM
it leaks, its german
 
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It aint how hard you hit the thing, it the pattern of blows, I've found over the years that a lighter hammer with a rat-atat-tat rythem works best (no, I never could spell) The casting boss left on the pitman arm seems to be the best place to smack it. Good job on getting it out, now go beat your chest and and repeat after me... "neo get part off, ugh". Dont sweat the neanderthal techniques, they still have a place in repair sessions.


Joe
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  #12  
Old 11-06-2002, 09:00 AM
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joe is correct. The hammer is one of the most useful tools in your box. In the wrong hands, however, it can definitely cause the most problems. I do take a little issue with the comment about using a smaller hammer. Sometimes this is correct, and sometimes not. You need at least four hammer sizes in your box. You know, the right tool for the right job.

When I worked in a shop many years ago, I was known for my prowess with a hammer. I like to think that they were impressed with the use of the other tools in my box as well.

Have a great day,
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  #13  
Old 11-06-2002, 11:06 AM
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Anti-seize on re-assembly

Before I reassemble a tapered joint (tie rod ends, ball joints, etc.) I always coat them with a little anti-seize. Then when they need to be taken apart again, I don't need a puller or pickle fork. Just loosen the nut, support it a little from behind, then a good rap with a hammer -- works every time.

Jeff Pierce
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Last edited by tvpierce; 11-06-2002 at 06:36 PM.
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  #14  
Old 11-06-2002, 01:34 PM
it leaks, its german
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by LarryBible


When I worked in a shop many years ago, I was known for my prowess with a hammer. I like to think that they were impressed with the use of the other tools in my box as well.

Have a great day, [/B]
So in other words you would regularly beat it into submission.

These days you need 4 sizes of regular ball peens, a big dead blow (damn aftermarket wheels) and a brass one is nice.


Joe
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  #15  
Old 11-06-2002, 05:56 PM
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I've often wondered why you couldn't use never seize on these tapered joints. However, I think the manual specifcally says to assemble them dry.
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