The Sleeper Part Deux - Page 7 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #91 06-30-2013, 03:39 PM

It might be a little hard to explain the orientation of the pulley, so bear with me. If you put the belt on all the pulleys, and turn the eccentric clockwise (toward the VP), the belt should tighten before the pulley hits the VP. If it does, the belt is too long. I only installed the Gen 1 bracket on turbo engines, so the crank pulley may be a different size on the N/A engine. Originally I had to try 3 different belts with a 1/2" difference in length. I ended up with the size included in the kit. Once the belt is tight, the big bolt can be tightened snug. BTW, the big washer is for spacing the idler pulley out if the belt does not line up. The idler bolt will come very close to the power steering belt, and possibly touch it. You can fine tune the adjustment with thicker and thinner washers if it is that critical to you, but the one washer should put the belt in the correct line if needed.

greazzer · #92 06-30-2013, 04:09 PM

Ok, here's a bunch of dumbo questions. How does the idler pulley tighten up? I can move it by hand outward or inward. I am guessing that once I put the belt on, then I can adjust by hand? If so, what makes it "tight". I have no power steering belt to worry about. I have manual steering. I am going to try to tinker with the condensor this evening, put it just poured like crazy and stopped, but its starting to cloud up again. If JayBob is watching, post the video if you don't mind. Thanks.

ROLLGUY · #93 06-30-2013, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

Ok, here's a bunch of dumbo questions. How does the idler pulley tighten up? I can move it by hand outward or inward. I am guessing that once I put the belt on, then I can adjust by hand? If so, what makes it "tight".

Usually there are no dumb questions, but I answered the above question in the previous post.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Once the belt is tight, the big bolt can be tightened snug.

greazzer · #94 06-30-2013, 06:41 PM

So, in other words, once the pulley is in the place where it would make the belt tight, then simply tighten the bolt head where it rests near the oil dip stick tube. I am surprised its that simple and it will hold. I guess I will be finding out pretty soon. LOL. Thanks ROLLGUY!

ROLLGUY · #95 06-30-2013, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

So, in other words, once the pulley is in the place where it would make the belt tight, then simply tighten the bolt head where it rests near the oil dip stick tube. I am surprised its that simple and it will hold. I guess I will be finding out pretty soon. LOL. Thanks ROLLGUY!

When the eccentric is used on any other application, a shorter bolt tightens the eccentric against a flat surface. In this application, the bolt just happens to be about 7 inches long, and squeezes the sleeves welded to the plate and the boss on the block as well as holding the eccentric from turning.

greazzer · #96 07-03-2013, 07:53 AM

After looking back on removing the factory head from the AC compressor and dealing with my current "K" head issues, I recalled that the ports are different sized. Here are some pictures. So, realizing I have some beautiful lines made by ROLLGUY, I got an odd feeling that I should have never removed that original head ... After getting up, and seeing which lines fit and which ones didn't. Well, it looks like ROLLGUY came through since the lines I got accomadate the little side and bigger side ports ... Wew ...

At least for now. I should be getting my gasket kit any day ... then, it's show time.

ROLLGUY · #97 07-03-2013, 12:06 PM

The head on the right (with the 2 large ports) is for Rotolock fittings. This type of fitting is used in older vehicles that had a valve and service port connected to the compressor head via a Rotolock fitting. The head on the left (I hope that is the one you are using) is for #8 & #10 O ring fittings.

greazzer · #98 07-03-2013, 03:21 PM

Yes, the one on the left, the "K-Head" is the reason for all the hoop-la. She's going on once I get my gasket set and I hope it works !

greazzer · #99 07-15-2013, 06:29 PM

Got everything hooked up today ...

Ran vacuum for 6 whole hours today ...

And no leaks and gauge stayed at 29 the whole time ....

Tried to install one can of oil (4 oz) ... not sure any really got in ... no sucking

Tried one can of R-12 and not sure any really got in ... no sucking

I have done other A/C systems before and the can of refrigerant drained pretty fast on other cars.

So, what could it be ? I am totally stumped and bumed. I thought I would be having AC this week.

Any ideas ?

Doktor Bert · #**100** 07-15-2013, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

Got everything hooked up today ...

Ran vacuum for 6 whole hours today ...

And no leaks and gauge stayed at 29 the whole time ....

Tried to install one can of oil (4 oz) ... not sure any really got in ... no sucking

Tried one can of R-12 and not sure any really got in ... no sucking

I have done other A/C systems before and the can of refrigerant drained pretty fast on other cars.

So, what could it be ? I am totally stumped and bumed. I thought I would be having AC this week.

Any ideas ?

Check to see that your hook up is depressing the pintle in the schrader valve....

greazzer · #**101** 07-15-2013, 07:44 PM

SUCCESS ! IT WAS THE SHRADER VALVE AND NOT BEING CORRECTLY DEPRESSED.

I got two cans of R-12 which were 12 oz each. I also got in one can of oil, 4 oz. The oil can stated it was for R-12. All of this stuff was NOS.

I drove a little outside. I got 41 F* and I am thinking my system is low on FREON. I am thinking my cabin blower is on its last leg right now. Making a bunch of noises ... So, as long as it makes it til this upcoming weekend, I am fine with that.

THANK YOU ROLL GUY !

I am thinking one more can of R12 at the 12 oz flavor will do it.

I am going to buy one of those clip on thermostats. I used the laser gun pointer deal currently.

No more soaked shirts by the time I get home from work !

jay_bob · #**102** 07-15-2013, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

I am thinking my cabin blower is on its last leg right now. Making a bunch of noises ... So, as long as it makes it til this upcoming weekend, I am fine with that.

John and I pulled that blower and lubed it about a year ago. It was running pretty rough, the lube helped as a band aid. Sounds like it might be dried up again. It was so bad it melted fuse 8 (talk about a panic, smelling that melting plastic

) so that is why the blower is wired to fuse 5 now. I would stay off of high speed until you get it fixed.

You might want to start scouring the P-N-P for another one...or there is always the Volvo blower motor trick (Volvo used the same supplier for their motor as MB and there is a much cheaper motor intended for the Volvo that crosses over).

greazzer · #**103** 07-15-2013, 11:02 PM

Thanks Jay.

Quick question to the forum.

Since A/C is new to me in this car ...

The dial has at one end "MAX" and "O" at the other. If I do not put the dial at MAX, then the crunchy, clanging, rattling sound does not sound so bad. BUT, once I put it on MAX, the noise goes crazy ... truly a squirl cage ... LOL.

What is that ?

Also, I am guessing right now that I have about 22 oz's of R-12 in my system and about 4 oz's of oil. Maybe a little more. When I drained my Sanden, I am thinking about 4 oz's came out. I kept the oil so I could measure it.

Will I hurt anything temporarily ??????????

ROLLGUY · #**104** 07-15-2013, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greazzer

Also, I am guessing right now that I have about 22 oz's of R-12 in my system and about 4 oz's of oil. Maybe a little more. When I drained my Sanden, I am thinking about 4 oz's came out. I kept the oil so I could measure it.

Will I hurt anything temporarily ??????????

I would have put 4 oz in the compressor before charging, and another 4 oz in the system. It may be best to recover the 22 oz, and add the 4 oz in the compressor. Also, remember that the Sanden is smaller, and would require less refrigerant. The 2.2 pounds (factory spec) could be reduced to 24 oz and probably be just right. Are the bubbles gone in the sight glass on the drier with 22 oz?

greazzer · #**105** 07-16-2013, 07:09 AM

Just fired the ol' girl up. I do see bubbles - foam in the sight glass. I just let it run for a few seconds. Is that bad?

Assuming the R-12 is close or OK, will I hurt anything until I add another 4 oz of oil ? I am hoping VSTECH has the recovery equipment and I will drive to his house this week for a re-do of the oil and R-12.

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